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JimmyA91

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black_sedan

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search some of the fb groups. The feedback is mixed on going to a solid part. Something else will need to take the shock of those hard launches
 

sikedsyko

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I was running a solid guibo in my 2005 Z4 track car for a little while, but the vibrations were so bad it legitimately made the car harder to drive. And this was with the recommended solid motor/trans/subframe bushings. Most of the time it was fine, but there were some speed/load conditions that made the driveshaft sound like it was going to vibrate the car to pieces.
 

Thraxbert

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Lots of cars have tried these. Almost everyone ends in misery.

Unless you can run front and rear solid guibos with a single-piece prop shaft, and all of it has been balanced as a single rotating assembly by a driveline shop, you will almost certainly experience NVH beyond your wildest imagination. By removing all the play of rubber guibos, you are entering a domain where matchmaking individual bolts to specific coupler holes may begin to make a difference in the perceptible vibration.

It's not that these are bad products. It's that few will go to the necessary lengths to use them peacefully, and these shit vendors unsurprisingly do very little to warn people of the risks.

And if you're at that point, you might as well run a single-piece driveshaft that deletes flex discs altogether in favor of Spicer yokes or a direct-bolt CV to the trans and diff flanges.
 

Sikh_Supra

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Well I’m planning on ordering the upgraded driveshaft from twisted tuning, and the one guibo but I feel as though i should
Just order 2 and get rid of the flex components completely. I’m just worried about drivability
 

sikedsyko

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In my opinion, you also need to be running solid or at least high durometer bushings in the entire driveline: Motor, transmission, rear subframe, and differential. OEM mounts allow too much movement between transmission output shaft and the differential.
 

Sikh_Supra

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How much power are you making? The axles go long before the drive shaft.
I already have the axles, currently at safe tune of 700hp. Going to build trans next week, and install all parts as well then up the power
 
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underdonk

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In my opinion, you also need to be running solid or at least high durometer bushings in the entire driveline: Motor, transmission, rear subframe, and differential. OEM mounts allow too much movement between transmission output shaft and the differential.
Do you have a recommendation for a specific product for our cars? I agree with your assessment.

Just from a quick search, I found the following transmission mounts:

https://www.vividracing.com/-p-1537...juUwBS3EtWKpWYr0_RhlS2hiWv3TejsBoCjRAQAvD_BwE

https://twistedtuning.com/products/...ansmission-mounts?_pos=4&_sid=6e7736e73&_ss=r

These are pretty soft transmission mounts at 75 and 80 duro, respectively. They seem to be trying to strike a balance between improved dynamics and streetability. I'm coming up with nothing for stiffer motor mounts, subframe, and diff. I'd love it if someone could point me in the right direction. I'd pull the trigger immediately. Especially motor mounts. The engine torques more than I'm used to in a high performance vehicle. It was enough to repeatedly pop-off the coupler between an aftermarket turbo inlet pipe and the turbo inlet, in my case. Granted, short coupler (too short), but there was so much torque... and I'm only running mild bolt-ons and not tuned, so I'm not putting out a lot of additional power.
 
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Twisted Tuning

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the solid guibos i offer if you check out the full product description it has info on what needs to be addressed.

Our upgraded driveshafts actually remove the guibos all together for a better overall product.
 

Shay_Harambe

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Just go single piece driveshaft! Better piece of mind in the end. Get rid of the rubber guibos or whatever they are called.

The Driveshaft The Toyota Supra Should Have Had (Supra 8HP51 Fix)
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