hmm, interesting. must be why, if one researches springs, one will find reports of springs being too stiff or no issues at all. i've ridden in a 2021 with H&R and felt no discomfort, while on here i read someone stating the H&R were too stiff on their 2020
pretty awesome that it's a noticeable difference. 2023 must be fantastic
I think that you can get rid of most of the bumpsteer with a better alignment. From what I've read and seen in videos, with a proper/performance oriented alignment, you should be able to maintain everything within good behaving range as the suspension travels. At least in the rear the oem parts allow for some adjustment which is also where the toe changes a bit more during the suspension travel.
This is my hope. I haven't gotten it on track yet, but I've noticed even just going around fast sweeping curves on the road if you hit a big bump the car wants to rotate. I'm hoping I can give it enough camber and toe-in in the rear to keep it from becoming a real issue. Also, I think keeping stock ride height will help, as lowering can supposedly fuck up your geometry and exacerbate the issue.
Do you know have any idea on if that can be installed onto a 2023 with no issue and if it's possible to get that programming done as well?
None of us are as delusional to think it's the magic fix, but we're certainly hoping for improvement. Was it in the line or the slave cylinder?
Are you referring to putting the 23 parts into an earlier model? If so, that's the million dollar question isn't it? Because even if you did retrofit the 23 components into a previous chassis, without the updated AVS programming, would it even make a big enough difference to be worth it? Or can the BCM/DME even be updated to reflect the changes? The 2023 Electronic Power Steering programming is on version 3.0 as well.. can that be updated too??
Not condoning TJ Hunt videos or his advice, but i just watched his video, and he replaced the slave cylinder. The valve looked like it was in here
I was just thinking about this, track use really exposes weak links in the hardware (car) and software (driver). Toyota must have been "pretty confident" the MT's can take some abuse if they're encouraging us to run at least one track day.
I'm wondering if the Supras given to journalist had their clutch broken in by Toyota in advance. Not a single one of them had an issue and their primary objective is typically abuse.
Thanks for the shoutout @Eastwood ! We have been removing these CDV from BMW vehicles for well over 10+ years now with good results. They don't usually affect clutch wear/tear but usually allows you to do a much harder (read regular MT) 1-2 shift if doing a power shift or hard shift without much trouble. Without the CDV removed it will cause issues on a hard 1-2 shift - a delay and sometimes difficult to slam it into the 2nd gear. There is plenty of info on this issues with regard to BMWs. If you anybody wants to do reading from a good source without conjecture:
There are threads on this forum if you want to reference it. But the below attached picture someone posted is where its located - and it has to be removed from inside the Slave Cylinder. After removal you will need to properly bleed the Clutch Slave cylinder so there is no air in the line.
Not condoning TJ Hunt videos or his advice, but i just watched his video, and he replaced the slave cylinder. The valve looked like it was in here
For those who like to DIY things, is doing the wood screw method still an option for the supra's slave cylinder or are there any more appropriate tools needed?
Wood screw works perfectly fine if correct size/width. There was no special tools used for that portion on my end to be clear. Hope all goes smoothly!
