Mega Motor Mount Mashup

[razorlab]

It did not shake more with AC on. I think the idle gets bumped up when ac is on. I have an 8speed auto. At high rpm the shifts pop hard and you can feel every bit of it.

Your username plus "pop hard" = zero cred.

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[Funkjaw]

Wife got me the power flex red inserts for Xmas. Looking at the Verus engineering install video it seems like a pita. Does anyone beg to differ? Seems like a few of you say you can just jack the engine up a bunch and yank both mounts out that way? Does downpipe have to be removed? Any gotchas? My car is an MT if that matters....

 

[Thraxbert]

Verus' instructions are overly difficult.

Just jack the engine up and pull them out per my post earlier in this thread.

I've removed and installed 3 different mounts this way, including Verus.

Downpipe can stay on. But would be good to unbolt the exhaust from it.

 

[Funkjaw]

Verus' instructions are overly difficult.

Just jack the engine up and pull them out per my post earlier in this thread.

I've removed and installed 3 different mounts this way, including Verus.

Downpipe can stay on. But would be good to unbolt the exhaust from it.

Thank you! I will give this a go and report back.

 

[garudathree]

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Engine-Mounts/Engine-Mount-BMW-G82-M4-CSL-GT4-22117886928.html

m4 gt4/CSL engine mounts.

basically oem mounts with lower half of powerflex inserts, allowing for vibration damping, but still cutting drivetrain flex

 

[Strat-Supra]

Removing the entire mount from the car is very easy. Take the engine cover off, then jack up the engine at the flat spot on the block just in front of the seam between the block and the transmission. You can get the engine high enough to pluck out both mounts with your hands. Might need some wiggling and twisting to get the angle right, but they'll come out. Driver side is a little harder. With some practice, you can get the mounts swapped in an hour or less. Crack the etorx bolts on the mounts before you jack the engine up so you have safe leverage.

When lowering the engine back down, leave the mounts floating a few millimeters above the subframe and get the very long bolts (underside of subframe) started on both sides. Then set the engine down and run them home. Bring the etorx bolts to spec.

How high did you lift the engine? I lifted the engine about 3" before the jack maxed out, but it seemed like I needed at least another inch before the mounts could be pulled out.

 

[garudathree]

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

this makes things a lot easier

 

[Funkjaw]

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Engine-Mounts/Engine-Mount-BMW-G82-M4-CSL-GT4-22117886928.html

m4 gt4/CSL engine mounts.

basically oem mounts with lower half of powerflex inserts, allowing for vibration damping, but still cutting drivetrain flex

This seems like a good option - is this a confirmed fit for the Supra?

 

[Funkjaw]

How high did you lift the engine? I lifted the engine about 3" before the jack maxed out, but it seemed like I needed at least another inch before the mounts could be pulled out.

Maybe add another 2x4 at your jack point?

 

[Thraxbert]

How high did you lift the engine? I lifted the engine about 3" before the jack maxed out, but it seemed like I needed at least another inch before the mounts could be pulled out.

I'm not out there with a ruler measuring it or anything. Removed engine cover. Unbolted mounts. Disconnected downpipe. Raise engine. That's it: both engine mounts can be plucked out by hand. If your jack doesn't reach, then use a wood block.

 

[garudathree]

This seems like a good option - is this a confirmed fit for the Supra?

yes used that exact support this weekend for powerflex mount inserts and some other small parts

 

[Strat-Supra]

I'm not out there with a ruler measuring it or anything. Removed engine cover. Unbolted mounts. Disconnected downpipe. Raise engine. That's it: both engine mounts can be plucked out by hand. If your jack doesn't reach, then use a wood block.

Thank you, appreciate the help.

Wanted to make sure there wasn't a problem going higher before adding another block. Was shocked at how high the engine needs to go to get them out.

 

[Strat-Supra]

I must be doing something wrong, I can't get it high enough to pull the mounts out before the whole front end starts lifting. Is there a different procedure with a manual vs an automatic?

 

[Funkjaw]

I must be doing something wrong, I can't get it high enough to pull the mounts out before the whole front end starts lifting. Is there a different procedure with a manual vs an automatic?

Can you see what exactly is making the front end lift? Is the top of the bell housing lifting the car by contacting the trans tunnel maybe? I do believe most if not all people in this thread having been changing these out on automatics, so maybe you are in fact running into an issue with it being manual... ?

 

[Strat-Supra]

From what I can feel with my hands the bell housing is making contact, don't need more than an additional 1/2" of lift to get the mounts out. I only see two ways to get this done. Either lower the subframe or remove the brackets attached to the engine. The rear section of the subframe would need to drop, not sure it would drop enough if only the rear bolts were loosened. Haven't decided which path to take., not enamored with either at the moment,

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