Ohlins Road & Track

[Oodis]

I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question
I am running these Ohlins with Swift helper springs.
My preload and ride height is adjusted properly and the car has been aligned to my preference
I can not for the life of me figure out how to adjust the ride height
I know how it's done off the car, but it is not very intuitive on the car
The rear is no brainer but the front has me bamboozled

My only conclusion is that the shock body needs to turn after you turn the bottom orange adjustment collar and spin the shock body, which seems impossible with the shock body having the swaybar endlink and brake line bracket
does this mean in order to adjust ride height without messing with preload I would have to remove the shock , adjust and reinstall each time?

Thanks for any guidance you folks can provide

The orange collar in the knuckle is what you spin around to adjust ride height but you will have to loosen the bolt that crimps the shock bottom in place to move this collar, it will be stiff and tight. There is not much height adjustment compared to the average coilover ie you can not dump the car like a stance boy. Dont stuff around with preload unless you are a mad suspension professor and understand exactly what you are doing ohlins stats that you cannot not exceeed over 6mm of preload on fronts which it not much.

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[PikkaGTR]

Thanks for the confirmation
I figured it out after some monkeying around
At least the entire shock doesn't need to come out
I'm only looking for about 10mm lower than where it sits now

 

[decodeddiesel]

I spoke to Barry at 3DM Motorsports about a set of Ohlins with Vorshlag camber plates and custom Swift 180mm main springs with helpers.
This should bring the ride height to where it would be without the camber plates. It was a great conversation, and he's going to email me a quote today.

Re-reading this thread makes me nervous about parts compatibility. It seems like it should be a non-issue if I clock the shock bodies correctly...or if I go with MCS.

 

[Kase]

I honestly think the issue is that most people/shops dont really give the clocking a second thought. Yes, it will look fine with the steering wheel straight but with it clocked wrong, they do hit. There is no clocking tab like on the factory struts so it takes a bit of trial and error to get it right, especially with thicker links.

@razorlab do the MCS have a clocking tab? Yours seem to be clocked about the same as mine.

Did you get a chance to take a pic of the orientation of the struts by chance? Heading to the shop on Monday to see if I can get it corrected if needed.

 

[Evolution]

Did you get a chance to take a pic of the orientation of the struts by chance? Heading to the shop on Monday to see if I can get it corrected if needed.

I have not. I will be getting home extra late tonight but might have some time tomorrow if its not +120° in my garage.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Cant the suspenion error after installing R&T be just codded out? It really NEEDs the 400$ cancelers?

Bad news: I really needed the cancelers
Good news: They worked

 

[decodeddiesel]

Bad news: I really needed the cancelers
Good news: They worked

Mark, which ones are you using?

 

[FLtrackdays]

Mark, which ones are you using?

I went with RS-R. My fav mechanic said it was plug and play.

 

[decodeddiesel]

I went with RS-R. My fav mechanic said it was plug and play.

That's what I like to hear! Thanks Brother.

 

[Evolution]

I went with RS-R. My fav mechanic said it was plug and play.

I did the same. No issues with them so far!

 

[Meraki Autoworks]

RSR is more popular than KW For cancellers.

-Josh

 

[razorlab]

RSR here too.

 

[razorlab]

If someone wants to try this with Bimmergeeks Protool, let me know if it works.


EDC Delete: (Make sure the EDC module is fully unplugged.)

Step 1) Go to Vehicle > Multi-ECU > Vehicle Order > Edit

Step 2) Under the installed checkbox to show currently installed options. Uncheck "2VF: Adaptive M Chassis" or "223: Electronic Damper Control (EDC)" whichever is present in the vehicle order.

Step 3) Actions button > Save, then the app is going to run a calculation on which modules need to be recoded from the vehicle order change.

Step 4) Uncheck the airbag module from being factory recoded list. Then let the app recode/factory code the rest of the modules affected by the change.

Step 5) Scan for faults, if all are gone then you're all done.

 

[Islindur]

I have 1 simple question:

Which camber plates I should buy to pair with Ohlins R&T so I can run the car on stock height (NOT LOWER) and also achieve -3 camber at least up front?

Also RSR cancelation kit or code out?

 

[FLtrackdays]

I have 1 simple question:

Which camber plates I should buy to pair with Ohlins R&T so I can run the car on stock height (NOT LOWER) and also achieve -3 camber at least up front?

Also RSR cancelation kit or code out?

Checkout page 7 of this thread. I blew past it at 1st also. @Evolution saved me so much time and money.

I’m using adjustable control arms and went back to OEM top hats. But he mentions how to make it work if you really want to use camber plates.

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