Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[Rizen]

I've been floating around for a few weeks now. This forum moves slower than others, but has some good info, along with the usual static. Still, generally a good place.

I got the pads, and thanks again for that!

Right now I'm waiting on studs to show up, then I'll do the rear brake swap, stud install, and finish a few of my 3d printing projects (intake silencer delete and wind deflectors). I have a letter into the TTAC asking about spring legality (HKS for better wheel fitment), so hopefully that comes out later this month and I can buy springs/wheels. I found someone selling the Verus camber plates used on here so those are waiting in a box ready to go for that also.

The plan is to prep to S2 for SCCA TT which (for me) amounts to springs, wheels, tires, and alignment. Intakes, ECU tunes (sadly no piggy backs), sway bars, oil coolers, general coolers, and exhaust are allowed as well, but I'd like to just get it on track with my first round to see how it fairs against the other cars I've driven. Without the ability to change the manifold in S2 I don't see a reason to spend the coin on much else power wise. Exhaust is mostly for weight savings and sound, and the intake designs all seem to ingest more hot air (although it would be nice to get a different intake panel maybe). My winter projects will be determined by whatever oil temp I see (after I figure out how to log it) on track, but I imagine I'll do a cooler sooner or later given I live in the SE and don't have a lot of mechanical sympathy on track ?

The dashboard can display oil and coolant temp in C if you long hold the trip odometer button until the menu comes up, then go to unlock. The code is the sum of the last 6 digits of your VIN #. Then go to Temperature in the menu.

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[Rizen]

Per @razorlab
Toyota #:

Right:
43211WAA01 (standard)
43211WAA02 (- negative camber)
43211WAA03 (+ positive camber)

Left:
43212WAA01 (standard)
43212WAA02 (- negative camber)
43212WAA03 (+ positive camber)

BMW #:

Right:
31216878614 (standard)
31216877202 (- negative camber)
31216877204 (+ positive camber)

Left:
31216878613 (standard)
31216877201 (- negative camber)
31216877203 (+ positive camber)

What do the +/- camber options actually add? Are these like crash bolts on other chassis?

 

[i3igpete]

but for consumables like rotors/hubs/studs/etc it does make more sense to use FCP.

Really depends on the shipping. The cost to ship back used oil nowadays is getting pretty close to the purchase pricefrom elsewhere like amazon. My gut feeling is hubs and studs are worth it, rotors not.

 

[Subydude]

What do the +/- camber options actually add? Are these like crash bolts on other chassis?

Basically what you said. Given the socket style of the front suspension it was the solution to fix cars that couldn't hit target alignment. Also known as "crash knuckles". It's pretty common on autox cars in BS to get an extra -.5 degrees (or so).

For people dealing with inbound clearance issues (tire to strut) it may not be a great option, but in a spec class where you're running the stock 9" wheel it's kind of nice.

 

[Subydude]

Really depends on the shipping. The cost to ship back used oil nowadays is getting pretty close to the purchase pricefrom elsewhere like amazon. My gut feeling is hubs and studs are worth it, rotors not.

Fair point. I haven't checked the pricing between the two for fronts since I was only looking for rears. I'm a big fan of reasonable name brand front blank rotors for track as they really are consumables. I'd much prefer lighter stuff, but in the end I'd rather use the money to get out on track. If RA has good front options for close enough on shipping I'd definitely agree that a small bit extra is worth it to not have to deal with shipping and such.

 

[Subydude]

The dashboard can display oil and coolant temp in C if you long hold the trip odometer button until the menu comes up, then go to unlock. The code is the sum of the last 6 digits of your VIN #. Then go to Temperature in the menu.

Shit, that's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

I had bought one of the OBDII modules for bimmercode thinking I'd need to monitor it through there, but main coolant and oil is plenty for me. Easy enough to glance down on one of the straights and do a quick sanity check.

Does it stay unlocked or do you have to do it each time the car is power cycled?

 

[Rizen]

Shit, that's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

I had bought one of the OBDII modules for bimmercode thinking I'd need to monitor it through there, but main coolant and oil is plenty for me. Easy enough to glance down on one of the straights and do a quick sanity check.

Does it stay unlocked or do you have to do it each time the car is power cycled?

You have to do it each time the car is power cycled which is kind of annoying, but I just do it as part of my "in grid" routine when turning on garmin/data, etc.

You can pull it over OBD2 as well via something like an MXLink+, or your tuning software (MHD, Bootmod, etc), but this is free and OEM.

 

[Subydude]

You have to do it each time the car is power cycled which is kind of annoying, but I just do it as part of my "in grid" routine when turning on garmin/data, etc.

You can pull it over OBD2 as well via something like an MXLink+, or your tuning software (MHD, Bootmod, etc), but this is free and OEM.

Given my experience with the Cayman and C8, I'm getting used to "press all the buttons" again vs the prior track cars so it won't be too bad.

Sounds like the path is fire it up, put it in sport, long press TC, do the process to get temps on the dash, get TPS info up on the center screen (I was surprised how useful that was in the C8), then finally start the garmin. A far cry from my days in old Civics, Subarus, or the C5 which was just a single press of TC ?

 

[razorlab]

Given my experience with the Cayman and C8, I'm getting used to "press all the buttons" again vs the prior track cars so it won't be too bad.

Sounds like the path is fire it up, put it in sport, long press TC, do the process to get temps on the dash, get TPS info up on the center screen (I was surprised how useful that was in the C8), then finally start the garmin. A far cry from my days in old Civics, Subarus, or the C5 which was just a single press of TC ?

Don't forgot turning safety fully off so the car doesn't auto brake when you come up quickly on another car. You can map the TPMS screen to one of the number buttons so it's just one touch away. You can code the car to start in Sport mode.

What do the +/- camber options actually add? Are these like crash bolts on other chassis?

They replace the whole knuckle and either add positive (+) camber or add negative (-) camber.

 

[Subydude]

Don't forgot turning safety fully off so the car doesn't auto brake when you come up quickly on another car. You can map the TPMS screen to one of the number buttons so it's just one touch away. You can code the car to start in Sport mode.



They replace the whole knuckle and either add positive (+) camber or add negative (-) camber.

Hmm, good call on the safety thing. I have my safety options modified for DD, but full off is the way on track for sure. I'll have to look up the buttons for mapping options too as that would be easier. The C8Z showed all the data on the dash pretty easily, but this one likes to bury it's info.

Rizen has offered the use of his coder, and I'm going to play with the basic one after I finish the intake plug design. I'd really like to turn of auto start stop but it appears that option went away for later years and mine is a 2026. Starting in sport would solve it obviously.

 

[tomfree]

If you record sessions with something like TrackAddict or Harrys, pair the phone with an OBD reader via BT, you'll see a bunch of counters show up in the software that you can add to your session data file. I know for sure IAT is in that list, and I'm assuming some of the other temp counters are available as well.

 

[Rizen]

Hmm, good call on the safety thing. I have my safety options modified for DD, but full off is the way on track for sure. I'll have to look up the buttons for mapping options too as that would be easier. The C8Z showed all the data on the dash pretty easily, but this one likes to bury it's info.

Rizen has offered the use of his coder, and I'm going to play with the basic one after I finish the intake plug design. I'd really like to turn of auto start stop but it appears that option went away for later years and mine is a 2026. Starting in sport would solve it obviously.

Long hold the safety button = full off. You'll see a message on the dash that the safety systems are disabled.

I've only forgotten it once. The car really did not like my approach into T1 at Mid Ohio on the outlap when cars were bunched up. Chime scared the hell out of me. ?

 

[kungfujedis]

You have to do it each time the car is power cycled which is kind of annoying, but I just do it as part of my "in grid" routine when turning on garmin/data, etc.

You can pull it over OBD2 as well via something like an MXLink+, or your tuning software (MHD, Bootmod, etc), but this is free and OEM.

You can also display it on the car screen and your phone if you setup AAIDrive. Don't have to fiddle through menus, just open the app. I saved the car screen to one of my programmable buttons.

 

[Bug2th]

surprised bmrcode can’t access the hidden info.

The dashboard can display oil and coolant temp in C if you long hold the trip odometer button until the menu comes up, then go to unlock. The code is the sum of the last 6 digits of your VIN #. Then go to Temperature in the menu.

 

[razorlab]

If you record sessions with something like TrackAddict or Harrys, pair the phone with an OBD reader via BT, you'll see a bunch of counters show up in the software that you can add to your session data file. I know for sure IAT is in that list, and I'm assuming some of the other temp counters are available as well.

Also this writeup I did a while back: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/fast-wireless-can-logging-in-racechrono.26659/

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