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Alignment and suspension setup starting point. Would love to hear thoughts

What i'm still not 100% settled on:

1- might increase front camber just a bit as the starting point. 3.6 or 3.7.
2- considering reducing rear toe just a tiny bit for better rotation. Maybe from 2 to 1.75


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Mo camber in front.
aye. I'm currently at -3.4. Considered starting at -3.6 or -3.7. Perhaps -3.8 at most....because it's a starting point and i'll be realigning very often.
 

FLtrackdays

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Identical setups, including tires? I'm not sure how much brake pad friction material does as far as outright stopping power vs things like tire compound/width/temp. Imo pads are about being repeatable, controllable, and heat resistant.

How long they last of course is something else entirely, and i guess that's not comforting at all. i guess that's also relative. How long did they last, approximately. Would then also factor in the cost, which is reasonable. Not the cheapest, but not CSG level expensive either.
You‘re right. Different setups. I‘m on stock calipers & this was before even my Ohlins. I went back to the Hawk DTC 60/30 split and liked it much better. Then found the P mu999 thereafter, when I got more comfortable = faster.
 
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You‘re right. Different setups. I‘m on stock calipers & this was before even my Ohlins. I went back to the Hawk DTC 60/30 split and liked it much better. Then found the P mu999 thereafter, when I got more comfortable = faster.


Was looking forward to trying out those pads, but....Don't think i'll even get to try the 999s. Got into a minor unscheduled bodywork test at the track last night.

Going down the main straight. Overtaking. Reach the braking zone and start braking coming down from around 160 mph. A slow brz on the right swerves into my lane..in the braking zone.....i go around him to not just ram into his rear end and lost all braking of course and ended up clipping a benz.

While i can point a finger at the BRZ all day and i don't think i'd be wrong, i really should blame no one but myself. I shouldn't have put myself in that kind of position to begin with. I was going a bit too fast in traffic. Not exactly against the rules, we're at the track after all, but still unnecessarily risky anyway.

Front drivers side. Wheel, headlight, arms, shock, fender etc... Had a few of those parts on order while hitching a ride on the tow truck back to the pits.

Also bent the aux cooler on that side, which is clearly, clearly a sign to replace it with an oil cooler. Didn't want to just throw away a nice new aux radiator in the past. Guess that call was made for me.

Nothing but happy thoughts. I'm just thankful that i haven't installed the Nitrons yet....oof. They arrived yesterday.
 
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FLtrackdays

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Was looking forward to trying out those pads, but....Don't think i'll even get to try the 999s. Got into a minor unscheduled bodywork test at the track last night.

Going down the main straight. Overtaking. Reach the braking zone and start braking coming down from around 160 mph. A slow brz on the right swerves into my lane..in the braking zone.....i go around him to not just ram into his rear end and lost all braking of course and ended up clipping a benz.

While i can point a finger at the BRZ all day and i don't think i'd be wrong, i really should blame no one but myself. I shouldn't have put myself in that kind of position to begin with. I was going a bit too fast in traffic. Not exactly against the rules, we're at the track after all, but still unnecessarily risky anyway.

Front drivers side. Wheel, headlight, arms, shock, fender etc... Had a few of those parts on order while hitching a ride on the tow truck back to the pits.

Also bent the aux cooler on that side, which is clearly, clearly a sign to replace it with an oil cooler. Didn't want to just throw away a nice new aux radiator in the past. Guess that call was made for me.

Nothing but happy thoughts. I'm just thankful that i haven't installed the Nitrons yet....oof. They arrived yesterday.
Sorry to hear! Glad you’re making it a positive learning experience regardless. Any video of it? For the rest of us to learn. It’s always good watching others mistakes. No one is perfect. That’s for sure!
 
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Sorry to hear! Glad you’re making it a positive learning experience regardless. Any video of it? For the rest of us to learn. It’s always good watching others mistakes. No one is perfect. That’s for sure!
yeah i don't want to dwell on the past. My wallet is going to suffer for sure, and i'm not happy about that. But, i'm focused on getting the car back together and running again ASAP.

For the video, i actually do have it. I'll have to get the Catalyst and get a new card so i can pull the video out.
 
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General update on the progress:

Following parts have been ordered and have either arrived or on the way:

- Verus motor mount (80A). Will replace the powertex inserts (70A)
- Bevinsee aluminum jack pads
- OEM unpainted hood. Mine got dented.
- Triple Seven CF GT4 hood. Taking this opportunity to replace the smaller Verus one
- Verus oil cooler. Didn't want to throw away a brand new do88 aux radiator, but the right side drivers side is where the damage was, so the radiator got bent. no leak though.
- SPL: LCA, Tie Rod Ends, Endlinks. Replacement parts for the drivers side.
- APR Canards. Replacement.
- Nitron extra springs - 3 sets. So glad i didn't have the nitrons on, because the Ohlins shock on he drivers side front got smashed.
- Cusco tow hook.
- Apex VS-5RS 18x11 wheels. One of my TE37 wheels got damaged, and as it's a track car, not going to go down the repair route. It's a minimum 10 month waiting period to get another wheel. So my only option was to get a new set of something else. Will still order the wheel and have the full set. Will then maybe sell the Apex set when it arrives.
- It seems my "street" powerflex trans bushings cracked. 600+whp and a stage 3 trans tune i guess. Torque Solutions billet trans mounts on order

I've also gotten my hands on the wastegate replacement parts, so the shop is installing them on the Pure800 turbo. No more patch job

Transmission is also out and tomorrow the Dodson rebuild begins
 
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Oil cooler arrived and should go on soon

These also came in to replaced my cracked powerflex rubber ones. Torque Solutions always worked for me in the Subaru days.

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These billet aluminum pieces also came in to replace the OEM plastic ones. Don't like the Verus ones. Aside from the fact that they're too expensive, i don't like the fact that they force you to use a specific type of jack stand.

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The new intake should arrive tomorrow. Moving from open to closed box. do88, which imo makes great quality stuff. You also have the option to spec a pure800 specific turbo inlet, which is great. Not cheap, but great quality stuff.

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Silly manufacturer CFM / Pressure Drop data


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After going back and forth on this for months, i've finally decided which splitter i'm going to be picking up. Racebred. 5 inches. With the diffuser tunnels and endplates. I've considered every legitimate option.

The downside of course is that they take forever to make. But that's fine. My APR splitter is decent for now. But i need to install an air dam ASAP because the gap between the splitter and the bumper is def not doing me any favors. So i have one of these universal ones on the way

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Suggest buying the professional awesome support rods now (2x critical, but 4x recommended) and tossing the cables immediately into the garbage. Get the fancy bottom (standard will dig into the wood) and standard top (fancy will be tricky to fit on the crash bar).

Use a round wooden dowel for test fitting before you cut the carbon rod
 
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Suggest buying the professional awesome support rods now (2x critical, but 4x recommended) and tossing the cables immediately into the garbage. Get the fancy bottom (standard will dig into the wood) and standard top (fancy will be tricky to fit on the crash bar).

Use a round wooden dowel for test fitting before you cut the carbon rod
Thanks for the tip. I was actually just browsing the professional awesome site earlier today for some skid blocks.

Didn't know the cables were that bad.

2 fancy, 2 standard. Err what size rods?
 

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All 18 inches. Keep in mind the ends add another 2 inches on each side, so that's plenty of length.

1000013885.webp
 
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All 18 inches. Keep in mind the ends add another 2 inches on each side, so that's plenty of length.

1000013885.webp
Thanks. The car is at the shop so couldn't even eyeball it. I was thinking it was close and might be worth getting the middle length ones and shorten them. But yer 18 looks like plenty. Thanks!

Any particular reason you have that rod set up like that rather than how Racebred recommend? I believe the middle ones attach just behind the lower bar. Seems like plenty of leverage as it's just about the middle of the splitter. Just preference?

Considering how long it takes to get a replacement blade, i'm also going to err on the side of caution and run 4 skid blocks across the front.



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Considering how long it takes to get a replacement blade, i'm also going to err on the side of caution and run 4 skid blocks across the front.
I can attest that the Verus splitter can take a unmovable embedded train track rail to the chin, get ripped off the front of the car in 0.0005 seconds and still be reusable. Thing is a tank.
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