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Verkline or SPL?

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sh3hryar

sh3hryar

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As noted above, find a better alignment tech/shop.

Do you have the alignment specs the car was running with these tires?
the car was set on factory alignment after installing the lowering springs.. few months later I saw the rear tyres worn out.

I am still astonished on how the toe alignment changed so drastically... ?
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Traxion

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I understand that verkline is proven at this point. I am looking to buy a full set of Verkline myself but they are always out of stock, they are expensive, and if i need to warranty their parts I have to send them to Europe. Is there a reason you say SLG products aren't trust worthy? Or just buy Verkline because they are proven?
If you do buy, hit up [email protected]. He's on the forums too but doesn't really participate. He's the one who specs out the FA510 suspension for members. I just got my full Verkline setup from him and he has direct distributor access with more up to date stock info. Half the stuff I was looking at was sold out on the Verkline website but when I ordered from him, they had everything in stock except one bushing.
 

tomfree

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thanks for your input.
what other solution do I have?
Coming in late, but I agree with the commentary here:
- this is 100% toe out. You're dragging the tires sideways and it DESTROYS the insides
- try a different alignment shop, because there should be quite a bit of adjustment in the tie rods.

As for being surprised that the toe changed so much with installing the lowering springs and not touching the alignment, don't be. It doesn't take a lot of drop to change the toe in a material way. I learned this lesson many, many moons ago installing a mild drop spring on my old Eclipse and proceeded to destroy the tires in a couple thousand miles with the same wear pattern you showed.

In the unlikely scenario you actually don't have enough adjustability in the tie rods to get back to zero toe, THEN start looking at aftermarket parts, moving to a spring with less drop, or adding a little spring spacer to raise the car a little.
 

Strych9

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I wouldn’t touch that rear arm kit.

besides the fact that I’ve got 0 confidence in anything they design, they’re running the same fk bearings that fail on SPL stuff.
FWIW, I have built trophy trucks and trophy buggies that have raced as much as an entire season with exposed FK Rod Ends. I have a strong suspicion that something else is at play with SPL aside from the rod ends. My guess is the top hats. Slightly oversized top hats will murder rod ends in under a minute. My second guess is that they aren't running the right series rod ends.

If both your 16mm FK rod end and your 16mm Aurora rod end are failing, you're undersized.

If your 16mm FK rod end is failing but your 16mm Aurora rod end is fine, you have a top hat issue.
 

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Outside of quality assurance and performance standpoint. When installing my Verkline end links, I somehow manage to lose one of their washers (unique to their endlink). They're Poland based, so it did take a while for it to ship... SPL is US based.
 

TBK

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Nobody ever has their specs. You're asking too much.
When i took my car to get aligned, i told the tech that i needed to know my current specs before he they did anything. I even sent an email about it, saying it was important that they did so. In the end, they still "forgot" to do it. What really bothers me is that i want to dislike the shop for that, but it's a really good shop otherwise.
 

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the car was set on factory alignment after installing the lowering springs.. few months later I saw the rear tyres worn out.

I am still astonished on how the toe alignment changed so drastically... ?
Find a better alignment tech/shop.
 

exe36m3

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Find a BMW independent shop to do your alignment. Most alignment shops and definitely "motorsport" garages just do installs but hardly actual service or tuning.

If the shop says there's no adjustability, that's only partially true. Camber, or the tilt of the wheel, might be maxed out. And a rookie tech would think your tire is camber wear.

But there's also toe, the direction a tire points. So if seen overhead, if one tire is | and the other \, that \ tire will drag and look like bad camber wear.

So, to reinforce the track guys comments, get an alignment (with a before and after.)

An alignment is a hell of a lot cheaper AND better than throwing parts at a problem. Think $100-$150 versus $250-$450.
 

Strych9

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Do we not have a how to thread for alignment?

If this was a Camry forum then I'd say it's one thing not to have one. I just feel like this forum should.
 

FLtrackdays

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Outside of quality assurance and performance standpoint. When installing my Verkline end links, I somehow manage to lose one of their washers (unique to their endlink). They're Poland based, so it did take a while for it to ship... SPL is US based.
Same for me. Love the parts & can’t wait to test them more. But from a warrantee standpoint, it can take a while to get things. They sent me their online catalog for exact part numbers. If anyone else needs it (below). Saves some time & nothing gets lost in translation.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bEiiArbMPhojfa_vtYBemcDk9GCau7bb
 

tomfree

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Do we not have a how to thread for alignment?

If this was a Camry forum then I'd say it's one thing not to have one. I just feel like this forum should.
I don't think we do, but we do have quite a few threads where several of us have shared alignment specs, myself included.

Front:
Camber: -3deg
Caster: 8deg
Toe: 0

Rear:
Camber: -2deg (well w/in factory adjustment range)
Toe: 1/16" in total

Now with that being said, I have stock springs, but Verus camber plates. Since you're lowered, you're going to have more static camber, but there's not a whole lot of adjustability otherwise.

My recommendation - ask for factory specs, considering that you're not doing any racing/track events. You really just need front toe zero'd out. That will fix your tire wear.
 

Strych9

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I don't think we do, but we do have quite a few threads where several of us have shared alignment specs, myself included.

Front:
Camber: -3deg
Caster: 8deg
Toe: 0

Rear:
Camber: -2deg (well w/in factory adjustment range)
Toe: 1/16" in total

Now with that being said, I have stock springs, but Verus camber plates. Since you're lowered, you're going to have more static camber, but there's not a whole lot of adjustability otherwise.

My recommendation - ask for factory specs, considering that you're not doing any racing/track events. You really just need front toe zero'd out. That will fix your tire wear.
I'm not asking for specs, I'm asking because I'm the chassis and suspension guy on every forum I end up on and it seems like I write one for all of them. I'll write one if need be.

Also, I think you meant to reply to OP.
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