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EdgeOfSanity's weekend track day build

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EdgeOfSanity

EdgeOfSanity

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Whiteline is the same size as OEM but solid. I went to Cusco, which was great before aero. Then I went to the Whiteline after aero and some other setup changes.

Should be a good upgrade. Plus, it's SUPER easy to install so if you don't like it, easy peazy to go back to OEM.

FYI, their endlinks are trash. Also fun fact, I still use the OEM rear endlinks with no issues. 70+ track events.
What endlinks would you recommend up front?
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RideOrDie

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Hardwired a v1 in with a blendmount this afternoon. Probably the most important mod yet since this car does not have android auto and I don't have waze as a result. I also found out that I wired it wrong by using the pink plug per the internet's instructions for this car and various bmws. Now it won't turn off. Turns out I should have used the larger mirror plug that was way easier to get to. So now I get to do it again. This is what I get for being lazy and not getting the multi meter out to check the wires myself.
Re: Android Auto - Look into the Android Auto MMI boxes. Bimmertech sells one but it's expensive and the same as the cheaper ones you see on elsewhere. I picked one up for $150 on AliExpress and it's been working great for me. Takes 1 hour to install and Bimmertech has a step by step video for it.
 
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EdgeOfSanity

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Re: Android Auto - Look into the Android Auto MMI boxes. Bimmertech sells one but it's expensive and the same as the cheaper ones you see on elsewhere. I picked one up for $150 on AliExpress and it's been working great for me. Takes 1 hour to install and Bimmertech has a step by step video for it.
Will look into this once I get done with the first round of mods for sure.
 
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EdgeOfSanity

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Verkline, Suspension Secrets, BBT

IMG_0922.webp
How well do the verkline suspension bits hold up in general? I have basically the full verkline suspension setup included in my buildout spreadsheet.
 

razorlab

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How well do the verkline suspension bits hold up in general? I have basically the full verkline suspension setup included in my buildout spreadsheet.
Much better than SPL for sure. The SPL bits I swapped for Verkline have had no issues. I can't say the same for the SPL bits.
 
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Back to wrenching again this weekend. Loving how easy this car is to work on.

First up were the euro eibach springs and verus camber plates. Springs were easy but the plates were a frustration session until I decided to ignore their instructions and install them my way. I ended up splitting them in half and installed the lower piece of the camber plate onto the strut with the top piece mounted in the strut tower. 2 hours of frustration doing it per the instructions, 15 mins per side doing it my way. Highly recommend doing it that way. I set them about halfway in the plate after I took the pics. I noticed that you can't go much further with them since the oem plastic hat that is full of bearings will touch the strut tower. I'll probably get verkline lower control arms later on to help with more camber.

Plates and springs installed.

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Next up was the whiteline sway bar and end links. Forgot to take pics of that but everyone knows what a sway bar looks like. Easiest sway bar install I've ever done. Most of the time taken was pulling the undertray off. Left the oem rear end links on for now. I did run into a problem with one of the front end links clunking on the first test drive. I didn't tighten the locking nuts down correctly and they got loose. No more noises after fixing that.

JQWerks magnetic paddle shifters next. Have these in my S4, absolutely love them since I drive in manual mode 99% of the time so I got them for the supra. Install took about an hour total, probably 20-30 mins to get the airbag off. You'll struggle with this if you haven't done it before. Trick is to push forward on the airbag with one hand while pushing the clock spring inside the wheel with the screw driver. Do the left side first, driver side second.

Paddles

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Airbag and oem paddles out

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New magnetic paddles in

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Wheels came in this week, had the tires mounted yesterday, and installed a titanium stud kit. Had issues with the studs being too wide for the wheels and had to pull it off. The clearances between the studs and the wheel bolt holes are extremely tight and these studs do not sit 100% stright once threaded in. They're ever so slightly off so that the wheel won't fit. The wheels will have to go to a machine shop to have the bolt holes widened a touch. I managed to get only one of the 3 wheels on with the stud kit. Will have to run oem lug bolts for now.

Stud kit after I pulled it

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On the car

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Wheels installed for the first time. Springs need to settle a bit I think. After some driving around I have 2 fingers gap front and rear. I would have liked to go lower but as you can see in the background my driveway sucks, its steep. Stock ride height has the lowest point of my front bumper with 2 inches of clearance at the bottom of the driveway when entering at an angle without me in the car. Didn't want to risk going lower than what the euro eibachs provide. This car will be on coilovers sometime next year so I can fine tune ride height later.

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Few other things to mention. The tires are RE71rs 265/35 up front and 305/30 rear. There is probably a bit of rubbing going on in the rear over big bumps, I'll need more camber. The front seems to be ok but I think its touching the springs at full lock. Will have to check clearances later. Glad I didn't go with the 275 up front, its an inch wider tread than the 265 but about the same sidewall width. Pretty sure it would rub with the current suspension settings.
 
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Probably it for awhile, didn't get to the downpipe like I planned. Car heads to the body shop tomorrow to have the holes filled in the bumper. Then while the paint cures for a few days its going to a shop to have an exhaust installed and I'll probably have them put the downpipe in as well. Then its going straight to that same shops detail business for ppf and tint.
 

Eastwood

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Probably it for awhile, didn't get to the downpipe like I planned. Car heads to the body shop tomorrow to have the holes filled in the bumper. Then while the paint cures for a few days its going to a shop to have an exhaust installed and I'll probably have them put the downpipe in as well. Then its going straight to that same shops detail business for ppf and tint.
You usually need 30 days for fresh paint to fully cure and solvents gas out.

Check with your painter and PPF shop. Generally not a good idea to wrap or ppf so quickly after paint.
 
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You usually need 30 days for fresh paint to fully cure and solvents gas out.

Check with your painter and PPF shop. Generally not a good idea to wrap or ppf so quickly after paint.
Body shop is going to double bake it which is what the ppf installer recommended. They said it should only be a few days to cure. If it all works out the car should have the bumper done by Wednesday, exhaust done on Thurs/fri, ppf started on the following Monday or Tuesday.
 
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Starting to think through the next round of mods for the car while its gone. First track weekend is in about a month.

Intake Manifold - a lot of these are ridiculously expensive for what they are. $4500+ for one? Lol. Looking at either the wagner or do88 IM. Leaning toward the do88 simply because it comes with the phenolic spacer for about the same money as the wagner. Install doesn't look too bad, a weekend at most if I take my time.

Brake Fluid - will probably go with castrol srf unless someone wants to convince me another fluid is better.

Brake pads - Really stuck on this because I'm caught between two worlds. I really don't want to run a dedicated track pad since it'll sound like a dump truck driving around town and dust like crazy. I really don't want to run a compromise pad like the hp+ or ds2500 because it'll suck at the track. Hard to decide here. Might have to swap pads between track weekends.
 
 








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