EdgeOfSanity's weekend track day build

[EdgeOfSanity]

Bumper got the holes filled and resprayed this week and the exhaust, dp, and alignment are done. Car is now at the ppf installer and will get that done next week.

Rear right toe was way out of spec with the left rear near neutral, makes me wonder if it was out of spec from the factory.

Also ordered the endless rf650 fluid @razorlab recommended since his comments about pedal feel vs srf are echoed in many other places. Decided to go with PMU 999s for pads, ordered a couple sets of fronts and a single rear set from blackhawk japan this morning.

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[MisterSkiz]

Bumper got the holes filled and resprayed this week and the exhaust, dp, and alignment are done. Car is now at the ppf installer and will get that done next week.

Rear right toe was way out of spec with the left rear near neutral, makes me wonder if it was out of spec from the factory.

Also ordered the endless rf650 fluid @razorlab recommended since his comments about pedal feel vs srf are echoed in many other places. Decided to go with PMU 999s for pads, ordered a couple sets of fronts and a single rear set from blackhawk japan this morning.

my car was out of alignment at delivery - wonder if it has to do with being tied down on the boat. Also, heads up many folks have commented that Eibach springs are too soft for track duty....

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

my car was out of alignment at delivery - wonder if it has to do with being tied down on the boat. Also, heads up many folks have commented that Eibach springs are too soft for track duty....

Unfortunately my steep driveway forced that decision. At stock ride height the lowest part of the bumper was 2 inches from scraping without me in the car when entering it at an angle. If it becomes a problem the MCS coilovers I have in my buildout spreadsheet will be purchased pretty much immediately. I would prefer to hold off on it for awhile if at all possible.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

First track weekend coming up in a couple of weeks, looks like the PMU pads won't get here before it. Debating on just running the stock pads for this weekend or grabbing a set of hawk dtc 60/30. Might run the factory wheels/tires too since they'll have me in the novice group and all I'll be doing is learning the track and the car. Might as well use what came with the car and save some money.

Also, I've barely gotten any miles on the car so its not through break in, oh well. Will be doing the first oil change next weekend. Same oil I run in my s4, makes it convenient.

Will be flushing out the factory brake fluid with the endless 650 today or tomorrow.

Over the last few weeks the car got ppf'd, the downpipe and exhaust went in, it got an alignment, and I coated the car with CSL and EXOv5.

Exhaust install was a disaster. When I got the car back the drivers side exhaust valve was stuck open, the exhaust Y pipe section was hanging way low and scraping on speed bumps, train tracks, etc, one of the mid pipes was touching the rear diff causing noise and vibrations, the vacuum box for the valves was hardwired to the battery, and the valves rattled horribly when closed once I fixed the stuck valve. Car should never have left the shop like that.

Ended up pulling the rear section off to get to the heatshielding hiding the vacuum lines. Stuck valve was a pinched vacuum line from heatshielding being a little too tight in one spot. Valve rattles when closed required adjustment to the valve arms making them shorter. Low hanging Y pipe section, and this was very low with only 2 inches of ground clearance, required adjustments to every section of the exhaust and I fixed the mid pipe touching the diff in the process. Rewired the control box to use an open port in the fuse box which had switched power using a fuse tap and moved the ground off the battery to the chassis. Shittiest install of any aftermarket part I've ever seen. Want it done right, do it yourself.

Few shots of the misaligned exhaust after I got it home. Driver side sits way higher than the passenger and that Y pipe passenger side section hangs way low out of the tunnel.

After. About 90% better, there is still room for improvement but its good enough for me right now. Exhaust sounds amazing. Right about the perfect level of loud with the valves open and basically like stock(with valve open and stock dp) with the valves closed.

Few pics I took after coating the car. PPF was lifting in a few places and the front bumper had a bad bubble. Car went back to have all of that corrected a couple of days ago.

Last thing, picked up a set of iSweep Ti lug bolts to complete the look of the wheels. I can't be bothered to pull the wheels and take them to a machine shop to have the lug holes drilled out 1mm to fit those. The studs will be for sale soon if someone wants them.

 

[Z4m40i]

If you’re serious about tracking, get rid of the titanium lug bolts. Depending on how often you remove the wheels you should also consider studs. Skip out out Motorsports Hardware and go to MSI or Bimmerworld’s kit.

contrary to what’s been said, I’ve been in white line links for the last two seasons. They’re fine just not as pretty as other vendors though. Most end links are narrow around the center of the shaft which helps prevent rubbing along the steering rack boots on full lock.

While I haven’t tried endless 650, SRF has been great. Free replacements via FCPEuro make it almost a no brainer to keep costs down.

 

[razorlab]

If you’re serious about tracking, get rid of the titanium lug bolts. Depending on how often you remove the wheels you should also consider studs. Skip out out Motorsports Hardware and go to MSI or Bimmerworld’s kit.

contrary to what’s been said, I’ve been in white line links for the last two seasons. They’re fine just not as pretty as other vendors though. Most end links are narrow around the center of the shaft which helps prevent rubbing along the steering rack boots on full lock.

While I haven’t tried endless 650, SRF has been great. Free replacements via FCPEuro make it almost a no brainer to keep costs down.

Those wheels will also never look like they do in those photos ever again once on track. haha.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Flushed the brake system today with the endless fluid. Driver's side front line is full of crap, never seen something like this on a new car before. Gonna have to crack open my last bottle and keep flushing. Quite the expensive brake flush.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Those wheels will also never look like they do in those photos ever again once on track. haha.

They're coated, the crap will come off.

 

[Z4m40i]

They're coated, the crap will come off.

You must be new at this

 

[Am3n]

First track weekend coming up in a couple of weeks, looks like the PMU pads won't get here before it. Debating on just running the stock pads for this weekend or grabbing a set of hawk dtc 60/30. Might run the factory wheels/tires too since they'll have me in the novice group and all I'll be doing is learning the track and the car. Might as well use what came with the car and save some money.

Also, I've barely gotten any miles on the car so its not through break in, oh well. Will be doing the first oil change next weekend. Same oil I run in my s4, makes it convenient.

Will be flushing out the factory brake fluid with the endless 650 today or tomorrow.

Over the last few weeks the car got ppf'd, the downpipe and exhaust went in, it got an alignment, and I coated the car with CSL and EXOv5.

Exhaust install was a disaster. When I got the car back the drivers side exhaust valve was stuck open, the exhaust Y pipe section was hanging way low and scraping on speed bumps, train tracks, etc, one of the mid pipes was touching the rear diff causing noise and vibrations, the vacuum box for the valves was hardwired to the battery, and the valves rattled horribly when closed once I fixed the stuck valve. Car should never have left the shop like that.

Ended up pulling the rear section off to get to the heatshielding hiding the vacuum lines. Stuck valve was a pinched vacuum line from heatshielding being a little too tight in one spot. Valve rattles when closed required adjustment to the valve arms making them shorter. Low hanging Y pipe section, and this was very low with only 2 inches of ground clearance, required adjustments to every section of the exhaust and I fixed the mid pipe touching the diff in the process. Rewired the control box to use an open port in the fuse box which had switched power using a fuse tap and moved the ground off the battery to the chassis. Shittiest install of any aftermarket part I've ever seen. Want it done right, do it yourself.

Few shots of the misaligned exhaust after I got it home. Driver side sits way higher than the passenger and that Y pipe passenger side section hangs way low out of the tunnel.

After. About 90% better, there is still room for improvement but its good enough for me right now. Exhaust sounds amazing. Right about the perfect level of loud with the valves open and basically like stock(with valve open and stock dp) with the valves closed.

Few pics I took after coating the car. PPF was lifting in a few places and the front bumper had a bad bubble. Car went back to have all of that corrected a couple of days ago.

Last thing, picked up a set of iSweep Ti lug bolts to complete the look of the wheels. I can't be bothered to pull the wheels and take them to a machine shop to have the lug holes drilled out 1mm to fit those. The studs will be for sale soon if someone wants them.

Have you tried CSG (counterspace garage) pads? A few buddies ran them with fantastic results and good wear. Also, was a street usable pad.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Have you tried CSG (counterspace garage) pads? A few buddies ran them with fantastic results and good wear. Also, was a street usable pad.

$1000 for a set of pads is steep. Looks comparable to a set of DS2500 pads which I have run at the track before and didn't work well.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

You must be new at this

Not new, just haven't been on a race track in quite some time.

 

[Am3n]

$1000 for a set of pads is steep. Looks comparable to a set of DS2500 pads which I have run at the track before and didn't work well.

The track pads are $1050 but the CP's are closer to $880. If you'd like to try them I have a set I can let go at a discount. I just know that I've seen them run multiple times at Buttonwillow, Chuckwalla, Laguna Seca, etc. with great results.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Picked up a set of DTC 60/30 pads to use while I wait on the PMU order to ship. Also picked up another 2L of endless fluid. I ran another 400ml through the front driver's side yesterday and it was still pushing chunks of crud out. Ran out of fluid so I put the car back together and drove it. Pedal feels solid. Ordered another 2L of fluid, will flush again when I do the pads next weekend to try and get the crud fully out. Really wish I wasn't doing this with fluid that costs $84/L.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

The track pads are $1050 but the CP's are closer to $880. If you'd like to try them I have a set I can let go at a discount. I just know that I've seen them run multiple times at Buttonwillow, Chuckwalla, Laguna Seca, etc. with great results.

how much?

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