Horn Question / Replaced ‘Clown Car’ Horn

[puzzled]

I'm assuming you can't do something like removing the connector from the old horn and attaching to the new horn? That would be much closer to a plug-and-play solution, and probably be more reliable in the long term. Those tap connectors are known to fail over time in environments with a lot of vibration (like a car), and could also lead to corrosion of any exposed wiring.

You can choose to shrink tube it or e-tape it, or shrink tube over e-tape over shrink tube and etape and you'll be fine.

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[Steventje]

I have nothing valuable to add, but I blasted my horn today for the first time after someone cut me off, and I felt like apologizing to the guy for the sound that came out.

 

[baagel]

You can choose to shrink tube it or e-tape it, or shrink tube over e-tape over shrink tube and etape and you'll be fine.

I should have just wrapped my car in e-tape instead of getting it ceramic coated

 

[nibble]

Replacing Horn with PIAA sports Horn

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/replacing-horn-with-piaa-sports-horn.10997/

 

[baagel]

Did this recently, also used the FIAMM Freeway Blaster low note horn. It only comes with a ground wire so you would need some spare copper for the positive terminal. 16 AWG if you want to match the ground wire gauge.

I also coated the terminals and any exposed copper with Permatex liquid electrical tape. To tap in to the hot wire I used a Posi-Tap connector.

 

[climhazzard]

Has anyone looked at if the Z4 horn is a direct swap? I’d hope so.

(Z4 horn sounds much, much better - see throttle house Supra/Z4 comparison review for comparison).

 

[Motorknut]

Has anyone looked at if the Z4 horn is a direct swap? I’d hope so.

(Z4 horn sounds much, much better - see throttle house Supra/Z4 comparison review for comparison).

We already have one of the Z4 horns, just missing the Z4 low tone horn. Other forum members reported adding that to solve our “clown horn” problem.

 

[climhazzard]

Ah thanks, I must have missed that. Wonder if our existing wiring will work without modification. Will read back through.

 

[Motorknut]

Ah thanks, I must have missed that. Wonder if our existing wiring will work without modification. Will read back through.

Here you go Z4 horn

i think you still have to tap the existing wires and run it towardw the secondary mount point at the opposite headlight.

It may be easier to just get a pair of twin tone horns which both fit at the existing Supra horn mount, and wire it up there.

 

[Munkeeboi]

Ah thanks, I must have missed that. Wonder if our existing wiring will work without modification. Will read back through.

I bought a FIAMM low tone horn, used a wire tap for the hot lead and a chassis point for the ground lead. There is room in that cavity to mount the additional horn

Sounds like a real car now

 

[Zupra1776]

I remember reading through this thinking why are all these people going through all this effort to change a stupid horn....had to use mine twice in one day...it must go. It's literally embarrassing.

 

[Andrew4Supra]

I bought a FIAMM low tone horn, used a wire tap for the hot lead and a chassis point for the ground lead. There is room in that cavity to mount the additional horn.

Sounds like a real car now.

~ Any link to this actual horn? This particular one sounds as it should have from the factory … loud.

And lastly… did you have to remove the front bumper?

 

[J29DB03]

Think I’m going to give this a shot. Wouldn’t be surprised if I could simply remove the existing horn from the bracket and replace it with the low tone version for the Z4. Sure I wouldn’t have a dual tone but this is better than the high pitch version we get.

 

[Munkeeboi]

~ Any link to this actual horn? This particular one sounds as it should have from the factory … loud.

And lastly… did you have to remove the front bumper?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DINKP...0_1_5&amp&crid=TE8J7VX8I71H&amp&sprefix=fiamm

Yes, the bumper had to be removed

 

[legacy_etu]

An added thought for those doing this: use aluminum brackets and fasteners to avoid galvanic corrosion (crash bar being aluminum). Either that or separate the dissimilar metals to avoid this.

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