Black Stone Report

[digicidal]

Fourth oil change, however (due to reasons...) this was the first analysis. Stated oil interval is 8500 but it was probably closer to 9000 - I forgot to write it down and was too lazy to dig up receipts to calculate exactly. I would definitely say the factory 10K period is absolute maximum possible and not for most... however, still a nominal amount of additive remains at just under 9K miles. Note that I'm using Motul 0w20 (LL17) not the Toyota GR formulation which might have more additives? In any case, I'm going to continue with 7500 as my target period since it's just my DD and no track use at all. 35K miles, zero oil consumption ever, and no problems outside alignment issues since purchase... nice!

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[Evolution]

Just got back my results from oil change #2.

 

[3TMagnetMan]

Here its my first oil analysis this is my 2nd oil change I used Motul 0w20. I just switched to Liquimoly TopTec 6600 0w20 at 3800 miles. So far did 2 track days will change oil in 5000 miles and check back.

 

[razorlab]

Forgot about this thread.

Here are my two reports, the latest being after 20 track days on the car. The car was on track since a little over 2,000 miles and probably has more track miles than street miles.

100% stock power wise down to the oem air filter.

I've been using Motul 8100 X-CESS GEN2 5W/40

 

[Habu]

Car 1st oil change w/ original factory 0w-20 oil.
Actual mileage on oil was 5,600 miles.

 

[Quinn]

 

[RWhiz]

Doing great so far!

 

[B58_ hwAyaq]

Adding my latest to the data pool. 3,200 Miles on the oil on a DP+93 tune car (with 20k miles) in FL. Early oil change only to get me back on regular, round number oil change/service intervals.

Tuned since 13.5k miles. Liqui Moly 5W-30 from 17k miles (i.e. this report).

No concerns!

 

[nibble]

I thought some may find this video interesting.



i think some aspect could've been explained/tested better but over all, i agree that pre-filling oil filter is better.

 

[razorlab]

I thought some may find this video interesting.



i think some aspect could've been explained/tested better but over all, i agree that pre-filling oil filter is better.

How are you going to do that with the Supra?

 

[Thraxbert]

How are you going to do that with the Supra?

I use 30W100 so it stays packed in the filter like a thick mayonnaise before I slap that bad mfer in there.

/edit: loving these xW40 oil reports turning up squeaky clean. Repeat after me: 0W20 is for CAFE compliance.

 

[KBGT]

0W20 is for CAFE compliance
0W20 is for CAFE compliance
0W20 is for CAFE compliance
0W20 is for CAFE compliance

So true, I wish someone would have just told me to use LL01 or LL04 rated oils when I bought the B58.

 

[Evolution]

Here is my latest report. 4 big track days and 1 auto-x event on this sample.

 

[maniac]

I was always told by a race engine builder you can rev it to any rpm once its warmed up when breaking in but try to avoid too much load for the first 1000kms for a street car.


*This is incorrect, see below

 

[lucky phil]

I was always told by a race engine builder you can rev it to any rpm once its warmed up when breaking in but try to avoid too much load for the first 1000kms for a street car.

Either you or he has it the wrong way around. Limit the rpm and make sure the engine always has load for correct ring seal. The combustion pressure generated by the larger throttle openings is what creates the pressure on the rings and the force necessary to push them against the cylinder walls for break in. Highway cruising at steady low load rpm is the worst thing for ring break in or any elevated rpm with low load.
Phil

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