EdgeOfSanity's weekend track day build

[EdgeOfSanity]

Re-organizing the first few posts a bit. Build log starts with post #3 now.

Never done a build log before despite having taken multiple cars quite far down the modding rabbit hole. This is mostly something for me to look back on. Goal is to build a very capable track car that can still be driven on the street and taken on short road trips. I plan to drive to the various tracks around Texas regularly over the coming years. Its been quite a long time since I was regularly tracking a car, very much enjoying this with a few track weekends already on the car as of June 2026.

Mod List as of 8/15/26

Engine and Drivetrain
Femto dme unlock
MHD license/flasher
MHD OTS flex fuel tune
xHP stage 3 TCU tune
Dorch DS25 hpfp
S58 injectors
MHD ECA
AA catted downpipe
Valvetronic Ti exhaust
Armaspeed cf intake
Wagner intake manifold
Verus turbo heat shield
Verus rear diff cooling plate
Verus Oil Cooler
Rapid Designs rear diff brace

Suspension
MCS 2wnr coilovers divorced rear
Swift springs 14k f/18k r
Ground control camber plates
Ground control rear weight jacks
RSR EDC cancelers
Whiteline front swaybar
Whiteline rear swaybar
Verkline front endlinks
Verkline front LCAs
Verkline front caster control arms
Verkline front tie rod ends
Verkline rear upper lateral links
Verkline rear upper bent lateral links
Verkline rear traction arms
Verkline rear toe arms
Verkline rear spring wishbone bushings
Verkline rear knuckle bushings
Verkline rear endlinks

Wheels and tires
Apex V5RS wheels square 18x11 +40 (track)
RE71RS tires 295/35 (track)
BCF HCS02 wheels 19x9.5 +25 F 19x11 +38 R (street)
RE71RS tires 265/35 F 305/30 R (street)
iSweep Ti lug bolts (street)

Brakes
Endless RF650 fluid
Hawk DTC 60/30 pads (track)
Hawk HPS 5.0 pads (street)
Verus master cylinder brace

Exterior
XPEL PPF - bumper, hood, a pillars, roof, fenders, rockers, mirrors
XPEL ceramic tint
Armaspeed cf wind deflectors
Verus jack pad replacements
Cusco Tow hook
Armaspeed rock guards

Interior
JQ Werks magnetic paddle shifters
P3 vent gauge
Cusco rear harness bar
Blendmount for v1
V1 radar detector w/hardwire
Rexspeed cf passenger dash insert

Datalogging
Garmin Catalyst 2

Future planned
Verus hood vent
Verus full aero
Pure 800 turbo
Custom flex fuel tuning for track
Better data logging
Race seats
Roll bar
Wheel stud conversion
Charge pipes
BBK

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[EdgeOfSanity]

The Wall of Shame – This post is meant to document what went wrong with the build and why. I’ve learned more from my mistakes over the years than my successes.


First up, my experience with Track Time Performance who I had do the Verkline suspension arms, rear sway bar, and oil cooler install. I wish I had done more research on the shop. I used an AI tool to organize my notes, measurements, invoices, and emails into the write-up below; every item in it is from evidence I collected. If you want my initial reactions to all of this the fun begins on page 7 https://www.supramkv.com/threads/edgeofsanitys-weekend-track-day-build.35481/page-7#post-634342


Track Time Performance, Houston TX — Verkline suspension install, documented

I’m consolidating everything that happened with this install into one post so it’s in a single place for future reference, mine and anyone else’s. This is my account of having Track Time Performance install a full Verkline arm kit, Whiteline rear bar, and Verus oil cooler on this car between August and October 2026. Everything below is from my own inspection, my own measurements, the shop’s invoices, and the shop’s written correspondence with me.

Track Time Performance
6815 Theall Rd, Suite E, Houston, TX 77066
832-286-4579
tracktimeperformance.com

What was dropped off (Aug 10, 2026)

• Verkline front lower control arms, caster arms, bump steer tie rod ends, and all five rear arms per side with spherical bearings, plus the Whiteline rear bar and Verus oil cooler kit. All customer-supplied.
• A full set of new Toyota OEM torque-to-yield fasteners for every arm, with a parts list.
• Verkline’s installation instructions for every arm, with torque specs, included in each box.
• Written instructions covering ride height, alignment targets, bump steer and roll center, torque to spec, thread locker, paint-marking every fastener, and clearance checks.
• Verbal request not to remove the front bumper for the oil cooler (the Verus kit doesn’t require it).

First return, Sept 12 (invoice 14435)
The car pulled hard right and clunked on all four corners. The driver’s front lower control arm bolt and the driver’s front caster arm bolt were both completely loose at the subframe; the FLCA nut was about to fall off. Ride height wasn’t done. The oil cooler had a slow leak. I took it straight back on Sept 14 and asked again for clearance checks.

FLCA nut and bolt loose, caster arm adjustment loose

Second return, Oct 2 (invoice 14456)
I paid a second invoice for them to fix the pull, corner balance, and realign. Their own invoice says “still moving to the right.” They told me it was fixed. The pull was there pulling out of the lot and the wheel was off center.
What I found at home with a torque wrench over the next few days:

• Rear traction links to subframe: completely loose, both sides.
• Rear lateral bent links to subframe: nearly loose, both sides; at the hub, about half torque.
• Rear lower control arm damper bolts: broke loose at 60 Nm, both sides (spec 100 Nm + 90°).
• Passenger FLCA to subframe: broke loose at 90 Nm, angle step never applied.
• Passenger caster arm adjuster nuts: not torqued.
• Driver caster arm to subframe: still very loose, after being flagged at the first return.
• All four end links: roughly half torque.
  Torquing the driver caster arm myself took about half the pull out of the car on the spot.
• Steering rack set off center: tie rod thread exposure 32.5 mm driver vs 21.9 mm passenger, 11.6 mm difference. Lock-to-lock is visibly unequal from the seat. The steering angle sensor was calibrated to that off-center position.
• Because of the rack offset, the passenger front wheel contacts the caster arm at full lock. Three of my four Apex VS-5RS wheels (new, ~25 miles when the shop got them) are gouged into the metal at the inner pad and spoke backs, and both Verkline caster arms are damaged. Three wheels damaged in the same spot means three different wheels went on that corner while it was hitting the arm.
• Rear camber set to -2.5° against -2.2° requested. Rake reversed (rear sits lower than front).
• Bump steer spacer at 10 mm over stock on the same corner as a 5 mm roll center spacer; the shop couldn’t explain how either was set when asked.
• Paint marks only on arm adjusters, never on a single hub or subframe bolt. Thread locker only on some adjuster nuts.
• Oil cooler seeping at the distribution plate on the block (borescope). Front bumper removed anyway and refitted misaligned.
• My spare roll center spacers and rear lockout plates were not returned.

Tie rod thread exposure, both sides

Passenger caster arm damage

Wheel gouging

Both alignments were done with arms loose and the steering rack off center, so neither printout means anything. Every TTY fastener the shop touched has to be replaced because the torque history is unknown. The whole install is being redone elsewhere along with further inspections for damage to the arms, knuckles, and subframes. Will update this post with any further findings.

The refund
On Oct 5 I called the owner, Steve, and walked him through all of it. He had no explanation, asked for the car a third time (I declined), and agreed to a full refund of both invoices, asking for two weeks. The two weeks ended Oct 19. Calls on Oct 19 and 23 went unanswered. On Oct 23 he replied to my email in writing: “We had an agreement and I intend to stick to it,” and that he would “need to do several payments back.” No amount, no schedule, no payment. I’ve filed chargebacks with the credit card company on both transactions.


If you’ve had a similar experience with this shop, message me.


Full documentation, photos, and invoices available on request.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Picked up a 2026 Supra premium in stratosphere blue this past week. I've been wanting to buy one of these since it came out 6 years ago in blue but could never find one that didn't involve dealer mark ups or long wait lists. Used market is terrible too. Just happened to check Toyota's website and a dealer had one in stratosphere blue in the build phase that was unreserved so I immediately put a deposit on it.

In all the years I've been modding cars I've never done a build log. Thought I would do this just to have something to look back on. I tend to take my builds really far so we'll see where this one ends up. This car will mostly be a track build with some streetability in mind. Lots of mods planned up front then I will learn to drive the car and start tweaking the suspension as needed over time.

Mother fucking dealer drilled my fucking bumper for the front plate bracket after I specifically and repeatedly said DON'T DO THIS. At least they didn't wash the car and make me do a paint correction too. Got them to knock a bunch of money off and the car has to go to the body shop, have the holes fiberglassed, filled, and bumper resprayed. I had this car all setup to go straight to ppf and tint and had to cancel it. Such a let down picking this car up because of this.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Modding adventures have already begun. Plan to do most of the work myself this time around.

First up new jack point mounts so I don't have to use jack plate adapters. I hate using the pinch weld adapters on my S4, will make life a lot easier getting the car in the air on quick jacks.

Next up, Cusco harness bar. Mostly bought this to give myself a couple extra inches of recline.

New intake installed, can't have a supra without turbo noises.

Downpipe came in, probably won't install this until next weekend. I have so many parts piling up I'm going to be busy for awhile.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Hardwired a v1 in with a blendmount this afternoon. Probably the most important mod yet since this car does not have android auto and I don't have waze as a result. I also found out that I wired it wrong by using the pink plug per the internet's instructions for this car and various bmws. Now it won't turn off. Turns out I should have used the larger mirror plug that was way easier to get to. So now I get to do it again. This is what I get for being lazy and not getting the multi meter out to check the wires myself.

 

[MisterSkiz]

Hardwired a v1 in with a blendmount this afternoon. Probably the most important mod yet since this car does not have android auto and I don't have waze as a result. I also found out that I wired it wrong by using the pink plug per the internet's instructions for this car and various bmws. Now it won't turn off. Turns out I should have used the larger mirror plug that was way easier to get to. So now I get to do it again. This is what I get for being lazy and not getting the multi meter out to check the wires myself.

FYI, here is how I installed my hidden display.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/wh...aled-valentine-one-display.17445/#post-298376

 

[razorlab]

Just FYI, zero need to change the jack points or use adapters for quick jacks. They use big rubber blocks.

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Just FYI, zero need to change the jack points or use adapters for quick jacks. They use big rubber blocks.

Well aware, I use them regularly on my s4 which requires pinch weld adapters to sit on top of them. Not that it matters to me at this point, but the factor plastic adapters hold up with the rubber blocks?

 

[razorlab]

Well aware, I use them regularly on my s4 which requires pinch weld adapters to sit on top of them. Not that it matters to me at this point, but the factor plastic adapters hold up with the rubber blocks?

Yup, I've used Quick Jacks on my Supra hundreds of times at this point.

 

[BrodoFratgins]

Just FYI, zero need to change the jack points or use adapters for quick jacks. They use big rubber blocks.

Wait really? The rubber blocks can just sit on the plastic?

 

[razorlab]

Wait really? The rubber blocks can just sit on the plastic?

Why couldn't they? They are big rubber bricks that are like 5x the size of the flat plastic jack bits.

 

[Nugs]

Wait really? The rubber blocks can just sit on the plastic?

Yep

 

[EdgeOfSanity]

Among the pile of parts I have is this whiteline front swaybar and endlinks. May have jumped too soon on buying this. Debating on whether I want to do the front bar only or not. Not ready to do the rear bar for awhile. Worried that all I'm going to do is introduce understeer with no ability to tune the rear bar. Anyone with a front bar only that actually tracks their car care to offer an opinion?

 

[TBK]

Front bar is better than no bar. You're introducing adjustability to the front (assuming it's adjustable...).

 

[razorlab]

Among the pile of parts I have is this whiteline front swaybar and endlinks. May have jumped too soon on buying this. Debating on whether I want to do the front bar only or not. Not ready to do the rear bar for awhile. Worried that all I'm going to do is introduce understeer with no ability to tune the rear bar. Anyone with a front bar only that actually tracks their car care to offer an opinion?

Whiteline is the same size as OEM but solid. I went to Cusco, which was great before aero. Then I went to the Whiteline after aero and some other setup changes.

Should be a good upgrade. Plus, it's SUPER easy to install so if you don't like it, easy peazy to go back to OEM.

FYI, their endlinks are trash. Also fun fact, I still use the OEM rear endlinks with no issues. 70+ track events.

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