Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[Montaver]

Yessir. The Porsche kids seem to love them down here when they migrate down from up North for 5-6 months. Here’s my take. I’ll be different, as usual

Buy one and just upgrade the pads, tire, fluid and ability to dial in some camber. Get comfortable with her 1st. Go by feel of what you’re missing. Seats probably next. She really doesn’t need a lot. At least on my semi-flat tracks down here. You might be surprised and only need to purchase a few components at a time. Unless you’re going straight to competition.

Edit: and add an exhaust and downpipe. Sounds so much better ? ? ?

You are exactly right, I am very much on the mod as little as possible generally. Most drivers aren't fully maximizing the stock hardware. I see a lot of drivers with big power, heavily modded cars that would benefit from some more focused coaching to get faster. Most HPDE programs, especially the big ones (PCA, BMWCCA) are focused purely on safety to the point of being overly restrictive. I think a lot of drivers are held back, and the ones that want to break free end up in TT or racing. As an example, 3-4 years ago, first time I had my 981 GT4 out at WGI I had the chief instructor of Chin jump in with me. I was still learning the mid engine balance after years in BMW's, so my confidence wasn't really there and I needed someone to properly push me. After a couple of laps he said keep it flat from T1 to bus stop. I was convinced there was no way I could go flat up the esses but did it anyway and he was right. Next session he says I will take you out, I see where you are parked I will pick you up. He rolls up in a hertz rental V8 mustang on all seasons. We proceed to go flat through the esses, in drizzle, with no problem.

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[nibble]

You are exactly right, I am very much on the mod as little as possible generally. Most drivers aren't fully maximizing the stock hardware. I see a lot of drivers with big power, heavily modded cars that would benefit from some more focused coaching to get faster. Most HPDE programs, especially the big ones (PCA, BMWCCA) are focused purely on safety to the point of being overly restrictive. I think a lot of drivers are held back, and the ones that want to break free end up in TT or racing. As an example, 3-4 years ago, first time I had my 981 GT4 out at WGI I had the chief instructor of Chin jump in with me. I was still learning the mid engine balance after years in BMW's, so my confidence wasn't really there and I needed someone to properly push me. After a couple of laps he said keep it flat from T1 to bus stop. I was convinced there was no way I could go flat up the esses but did it anyway and he was right. Next session he says I will take you out, I see where you are parked I will pick you up. He rolls up in a hertz rental V8 mustang on all seasons. We proceed to go flat through the esses, in drizzle, with no problem.

you learn so much from right seat.

 

[razorlab]

you learn so much from right seat.

Can you learn dishonest tracks from the right seat?

 

[Islindur]

Well, adds to my suspicion of airflow being my main issue.

I like the Nitrons, but I'm a noob with suspension so I can't speak to them much. I went with R1's. All I know is the car feels fantastic on the track. You can adjust the dampening for the street. For spring rates, I just have the "default" setup for the Supra. Seems like if you add aero though, you'll want to step up the spring rates.

I dont think thicker CSF cooler is the problem. And that one is actually beneficial, coz it does lower transmission oil temps.
My 2.0 has the cleanest air possible on stock, run with no cover, still 300+ f oils after 2minutes....

Do u happen to know what stock spring rates U have? Or could check

 

[i3igpete]

All the clamping “tabs” all broke off the arm.

Seen this happen before, can’t beat the tried and true jam nut style locking.

Regarding jam-nut style rear toe arms. How are you actually adjusting the arms while installed on the supra?

The location is incredibly tight and the shop was unable to get in there while the car was on the alignment rack. we tried the usual adjustable wrench, 45-offset spanner, and even a crowfoot wrench on an extension and nothing would fit in that space.

I specifically avoided the SPL's because of the issues mentioned in this thread, but now i'm finding this dead end...

some stock reference photos (different brand, same idea).

 

[razorlab]

Regarding jam-nut style rear toe arms. How are you actually adjusting the arms while installed on the supra?

The location is incredibly tight and the shop was unable to get in there while the car was on the alignment rack. we tried the usual adjustable wrench, 45-offset spanner, and even a crowfoot wrench on an extension and nothing would fit in that space.

I specifically avoided the SPL's because of the issues mentioned in this thread, but now i'm finding this dead end...

some stock reference photos (different brand, same idea).

For the wheel side, take the two plastic aero bits off on each side and you can probably get to them. For the top side, perhaps one of those floppy wrenches? This was my concern with these types as well. Which arms are those black ones?

 

[i3igpete]

For the top side, perhaps one of those floppy wrenches? This was my concern with these types as well. Which arms are those black ones?

Those were a brand called racer x fabrication. I forgot to take photos at the alignment shop and they were the only stock photos I could find online that showed how shitty the placement of the jamnut was.

Regarding the top side, I was also thinking about trying to find a 1/4" drive crowfoot, but at that point, i'm just throwing money at a stupid design (if that size combo of 1/4"+21mm even exists).

BTW, did SPL ever mention if they updated their design after your failure?

 

[razorlab]

Those were a brand called racer x fabrication. I forgot to take photos at the alignment shop and they were the only stock photos I could find online that showed how shitty the placement of the jamnut was.

Regarding the top side, I was also thinking about trying to find a 1/4" drive crowfoot, but at that point, i'm just throwing money at a stupid design (if that size combo of 1/4"+21mm even exists).

BTW, did SPL ever mention if they updated their design after your failure?

Here is a good photo from that link that shows the plastic aero bits off. Gets you way more access to the wheel side nut.

BTW, did SPL ever mention if they updated their design after your failure?

Nope, they just sent me two new arms (I only needed one) without question.

 

[i3igpete]

Yeah the outers i'm not concerned about, it's the inner that we couldn't get from any angle. With the cover off you can KIND OF get the inner jamnut with some angled long-nose needlenose pliers, but you certainly can't get any kind of real torque on it. Unless you freeball it and leave the inner loose and only jam the outer nut.

 

[razorlab]

Yeah the outers i'm not concerned about, it's the inner that we couldn't get from any angle. With the cover off you can KIND OF get the inner jamnut with some angled long-nose needlenose pliers, but you certainly can't get any kind of real torque on it. Unless you freeball it and leave the inner loose and only jam the outer nut.

Just disconnect it every time you do an alignment. Alignments shouldn't take more than.... six hours then.

 

[racebuild]

Yeah the outers i'm not concerned about, it's the inner that we couldn't get from any angle. With the cover off you can KIND OF get the inner jamnut with some angled long-nose needlenose pliers, but you certainly can't get any kind of real torque on it. Unless you freeball it and leave the inner loose and only jam the outer nut.

Manufacturer of the arm didn’t design with having ease of adjustment in mind. I would extend the inner joint so the jam nut sits right on the edge the pocket of the subframe. You have to double check shank length to see if you can run one side extended and still have enough thread engagement. From the photos posted, it looks like they have the outer joint extended further so there is some wiggle room. If not measure out the heim and order the correct length heim.

 

[Yli]

Camber plates vs LCAs? Car is fully stock other than a square tire setup and I'd like to get a bit more camber. Running a small spacer currently, so if one is better for reducing risk of rub that'd be good. Trying to keep changes/mods to a minimum if possible and retain street ability. I've heard some LCAs can be a bit noisy.

 

[Rocksandblues]

I vote camber plates

 

[Bug2th]

For anyone that does a lot of racing/ track days - wondering if this makes sense and if so is anyone doing it.

I know on round/oval tracks you would have neg on one side and pos on the other but most track we would normally do have a lot of turns.

depending on the direction of the track do you set more camber on one side of the car

 

[sams2k]

Camber plates vs LCAs? Car is fully stock other than a square tire setup and I'd like to get a bit more camber. Running a small spacer currently, so if one is better for reducing risk of rub that'd be good. Trying to keep changes/mods to a minimum if possible and retain street ability. I've heard some LCAs can be a bit noisy.

what is the benefit of more camber in the front?
and should the car have more camber in the front then in the back?

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