Oil change

[wfujay]

I feel you. I ended up getting Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-30 A3/B4. It was LL01 approved until 2018 when BMW removed 0w oils LL01 certifications. Their 5w-30 euro is still LL01 approved.

I'd advise you to not run 0W-30 oil in these cars, especially in the summer. That's gonna shear down to basically water. BMW engines run extremely hot and that's not gonna provide the protection needed in the hotter months, although in the coldest winter months it would probably be ok. When I drained my factory 0W-20 a few months ago it was basically already water and it was still cool outside.

Just my opinion of course, take it or leave it.

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[Motorknut]

I did a bit of digging and looked into epa reports. It states : "The program sets new vehicle emissions standards and lowers the sulfur content of gasoline to a maximum of 10ppm beginning in 2017". That should be on par with Europe. I'm not entirely sure but it looks like we could use LL-04 now, unless there are other factors. I wasted way too much time on this tbh.

This is another thread discussing the matter : https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/bmw-b58-engine-oil-recommendation.337089/page-3

if you aren't running the oil on extended intervals, you should be fine with LL-04. The benefit over LL-01 is that the lower SAPS is better for direct injection engines with lesser deposits.

Most owners who bother to look up their engine oil are changing it out much earlier than the official guidance, so they shouldn't have to worry about TBN depletion on that mileage.

 

[akasonny]

OK, I haven't heard of this response from the dealership I purchased my car from but I made an appointment to have my oil changed for my first "Free" service. I was called prior to the appointment an told that the Supra has a 10k mile 1 year OCI and I haven't reached that yet. Also that there isn't a real "break in period" so don't bring in my car. This was Monday, today I called the dealership and spoke to a woman who was going to pass on my inquiry to the service manager and give me a call back. Well no call but it's only been half a day.

So, in the manual they outline a break in period, but the customer can't get a service following the period? I think I need to document some things...

That all depends upon the dealership, apparently. I had mine changed at 1200 on the freebie. The only thing the service manager said is that now I have to wait for 10000 for the other freebie.

 

[Lendo]

Sounds about right. I will likely forego the free service and have a local BMW shop put in 5-30 since I live in the desert.

 

[Axix23]

I'd advise you to not run 0W-30 oil in these cars, especially in the summer. That's gonna shear down to basically water. BMW engines run extremely hot and that's not gonna provide the protection needed in the hotter months, although in the coldest winter months it would probably be ok. When I drained my factory 0W-20 a few months ago it was basically already water and it was still cool outside.

Just my opinion of course, take it or leave it.

You do realize the second number is what’s important when the oil is warm? The first one is when it’s cold....

If you want thicker oil, go with 0w40 that’s what the GTR run

 

[akasonny]

Sounds about right. I will likely forego the free service and have a local BMW shop put in 5-30 since I live in the desert.

Desert here too (Arizona) but I’m sticking with the recommended C5 oil.

 

[wfujay]

You do realize the second number is what’s important when the oil is warm? The first one is when it’s cold....

If you want thicker oil, go with 0w40 that’s what the GTR run

Yes I know what it means. The first number matters too. It's pumpability in winter yes, but a 0W is still thinner (aka more pumpable in winter) than a 5W.

A 0W-30 is thinner than a 5W-30.

 

[Axix23]

Yes I know what it means. The first number matters too. It's pumpability in winter yes, but a 0W is still thinner (aka more pumpable in winter) than a 5W.

A 0W-30 is thinner than a 5W-30.

First number is used upon start up. You always want the most thin for the start up temps so your motor and turbo can get oil sooner..... most turbo cars run 0w

 

[wfujay]

First number is used upon start up. You always want the most thin for the start up temps so your motor and turbo can get oil sooner..... most turbo cars run 0w

0W oils are EPA fuel economy oils. Most current turbos run them strictly for EPA reasons, but of the past 10 or so turbo cars I've owned, I've ran 5W-40 in summer months and a 5W-30 during winter.

FCP Euro and almost every tuner shop I know of recommends a 5W oil for turbo BMW applications (especially when tuned). Only the dealers recommend 0W oils because they need to comply with EPA regulations.

https://www.stikkitnow.com/0w30-vs-5w30-motor-oil/#:~:text=Oils are either thick or,the 0W-30 motor oil.&text=The 0W-30 is thinner,as better for saving more.

Fuel Economy
The kind of motor oil you choose can make a big difference on how much you save. The 0W-30 motor is renowned for its high capacity to improve fuel economy. The 5W-30 has a viscosity that is higher than the 0W-30, this can be clearly judged by the grade or number it carries. Oils are either thick or thin. Thick means the oil has a high viscosity while thin means the oil’s viscosity is low. It is same as the case of these two oils; the 5W-30 is thicker than the 0W-30 motor oil.

It’s the viscosity or “flowability” or thinness of any oil that determines it’s fuel economy improvement capacity. The 0W-30 is thinner or less viscous than the 5W-30 which makes it considered as better for saving more.

This is not to say 5W-30 does not increase the fuel economy, but it does lesser than 0W-30 motor oil. Compared to other high viscosity oils, the 5W-30 can improve the fuel economy. You can have 1 to 2 percent raise in fuel economy with 0W-30 motor oil.

 

[akasonny]

0W oils are EPA fuel economy oils. Most current turbos run them strictly for EPA reasons, but of the past 10 or so turbo cars I've owned, I've ran 5W-40 in summer months and a 5W-30 during winter.

FCP Euro and almost every tuner shop I know of recommends a 5W oil for turbo BMW applications (especially when tuned). Only the dealers recommend 0W oils because they need to comply with EPA regulations.

https://www.stikkitnow.com/0w30-vs-5w30-motor-oil/#:~:text=Oils are either thick or,the 0W-30 motor oil.&text=The 0W-30 is thinner,as better for saving more.

When analyzing oil-weight only, I'm sure you're correct. However, we can't forget about the oil make-up. BMW, in European cars, use a slightly different oil makeup (due to sulfated ash) than we do in ours because of fuel standards. I've been unable to locate anything other than 0W-20 in the C5 standard.

 

[ShakaDaKine]

What do you guys think of this oil:
RAVENOL EFS 0W20 Synthetic Oil - BMW 17FE+ Volvo RBS0-2AE Engine Oil 5L (blauparts.com)

It seems to be the correct spec.

 

[akasonny]

What do you guys think of this oil:
RAVENOL EFS 0W20 Synthetic Oil - BMW 17FE+ Volvo RBS0-2AE Engine Oil 5L (blauparts.com)

It seems to be the correct spec.

It IS the C5 spec and a likely alternative but I don't see how it offers any benefit over the Yoda oil...perhaps only in cost.

 

[Motorknut]

What do you guys think of this oil:Ravenol specs
RAVENOL EFS 0W20 Synthetic Oil - BMW 17FE+ Volvo RBS0-2AE Engine Oil 5L (blauparts.com)

It seems to be the correct spec.

Ravenol spec sheet. Sulphated ash looks pretty low, which is good for DI engines.

 

[akasonny]

Ravenol spec sheet. Sulphated ash looks pretty low, which is good for DI engines.

If memory serves, the European gas was lower in ash and BMW used a refined oil as result (LLO1?).

 

[Motorknut]

If memory serves, the European gas was lower in ash and BMW used a refined oil as result (LLO1?).

lower SAPS oil tends to have lower TBN values. Higher sulphur gasoline depletes TBN faster. So LL-04 spec wasn’t originally approved for The US.
But now that the sulphur specs are closer to Euro, you should still be able to run lower SAPS engine oils as long as your oil change intervals are relatively shorter (ensuring ample TBN levels).

I don’t really get why people on oil forums still encourage LL-01 use - with the newer DI engines, I thought lower SAPS (eg: LL-04) would be the better option.

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