Brake Fluid service @ 10k miles????

[tadda]

Yup...

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[Andrew4Supra]

Quit being cheap.

~ that’s funny. nothing to do with being cheap just wise.

 

[Andrew4Supra]

In my professional opinion:

Nothing to do with sales & profits, and everything to do with the increasing cost & complexity of ABS, TCS, VSC, EBD, BA (and so on) systems. These things are so precisely calibrated it isn't funny. Things like worn suspension bushings, dampers, or even different tires than OE can inhibit its function and effectiveness. Considering the fluid is the actual lifeblood of everything, highly susceptible to contamination & breakdown, and dirt cheap to change in the grand scheme, it should be an easy decision to just do it and move on.

Quit being cheap.

~ You must work for a dealership?

 

[RenRed2]

~ that’s funny. nothing to do with being cheap just wise.

Wise lol. Its an expensive and most important system in a vehicle yes? So doing good maintenance at least for that is wise. Follow the makers recommendation given the fluids STRONG tendancy to absorb moisture is wise. Cheap is exactly what one's see's on forums. The complaining about cost or time involved to properly maintain a sophisticated system. Again if you are feeling financial pain for something like this - your brakes-- find another vehicle and dont drive near me as well LOL!

 

[RenRed2]

I'm at 15,000km and I have this message.

And........................................did you check your fluid and or go to the dealer/shop. Thanks for sharing with all of us?? LOL!

 

[Andrew4Supra]

Wise lol. Its an expensive and most important system in a vehicle yes? So doing good maintenance at least for that is wise. Follow the makers recommendation given the fluids STRONG tendancy to absorb moisture is wise. Cheap is exactly what one's see's on forums. The complaining about cost or time involved to properly maintain a sophisticated system. Again if you are feeling financial pain for something like this - your brakes-- find another vehicle and dont drive near me as well LOL!

~ An engineer who works for dealership?

 

[WITCH3R]

Brake fluid should not need to be changed unless it becomes contaminated. It is a sealed system.

 

[HAL 9000]

You come to my dealer with 10k miles for a brake flush and it will get smoked hands down

 

[Pat]

I'm at 15,000km and I have this message.

Would definitely get that checked, I have about 17k miles without ever having that issue

 

[FuzzyRev]

You come to my dealer with 10k miles for a brake flush and it will get smoked hands down

What is that supposed to mean?

And @WITCH3R, that goes without saying, but yet, somehow the fluid always gets contaminated over time. Moisture will find a way in, come hell or high water. For example, both of my snowmobile's brake systems are damn well 'sealed' and still require fluid replacement every year. The firmness of the brake lever changes noticeably by the end of the season.

 

[HAL 9000]

Means you will get charged but the tech won’t do it.

 

[digicidal]

Hmmm... got 37K on mine... fluid's fine, but will be doing brakes soon and will change when I do. Of course, not only is it a sealed system - but the added advantage of desert living I guess. If there was any atmospheric exchange, the fluid is more likely to lose in the process.

Although we did have almost 9% today... felt muggy as all hell.

 

[Bluemkv]

Means you will get charged but the tech won’t do it.

So basically you work for a grimey dealership. I understand people come in wanting maintenance when they don't need it, but taking someone's money and not doing with they paid for is scummy as fuck.

 

[suicidaleggroll]

Anyone know how if this brake fluid job can be done at home? Or does it require special tools?

It can be done without special tools, but it’s much easier and faster with a power bleeder, eg:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/power-brake-bleeder-motive-mot0100

Just open up the fluid reservoir, suck out as much of the old fluid as you can with a turkey baster, fill it up with new fluid, connect the bleeder, pump it up a little bit to build pressure, then go to the caliper and open the bleed valve (with a hose attached to dump the output into a bottle) to push the new fluid through the line. Close the bleed valve, fill the reservoir back up, reattach the power bleeder, build pressure again, do the next caliper, and so on until you’ve done all 4 calipers. You can also fill the bleeder kit with fluid so you don’t need to refill the master reservoir every time, but if you do that then you need to clean and wash out the bleeder kit when you’re done. If you just use the kit to apply pressure, it stays clean and there’s no mess.

 

[tg_mkv]

Hello, hope all are well. Does anyone have any idea why I would have this message? Car has little under 11k miles. Little back story, put drag radials on last week. Last Friday at the track, after a couple of burnouts, I noticed brakes were NOT working as good as they had in the past. They work fine at lower speeds, but when pushing the car, the peddle now feels stiffer and braking distance is increased.

Also, was gonna run out my flex fuel and just load 93 octane map to take to dealership. The brake recall is required in PA because it is a safety issue. So was gonna have both issues looked at. My car is 2020 and ECU was never locked. If I get locked out of it, with just DP, will car run fine till I have ECU unlocked?

I got mine while I was only at 16k but my dealer just reset it since the car was far from needing a brake fluid service.

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