Low Oil Poll with Break-in Data

[swift.mk5]

Yeah, some of the write ups on this oil burning had me wondering, my 2021 build date was 01/21. Only 320 miles now, and yes my oil level is good. We'll see how it goes, but the Supra is under warranty.

lol dang I got mine 2 weeks ago and I put 900 miles on it already. Oil level is still good but I've been driving mine hard every mile. 12/20 Build date '21 Supra 3.0

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[Ivan27]

lol dang I got mine 2 weeks ago and I put 900 miles on it already. Oil level is still good but I've been driving mine hard every mile. 12/20 Build date '21 Supra 3.0

Yeah, 3 weeks old this Friday. I'm going to take it on a nice cruise to Flagstaff, then go down to Sedona, and then through Jerome, and back home. Should b a good road trip.

 

[Pushrod]

well maybe because the two companies that built this car have almost 200 years of car building experience and have invested 100s of millions of dollars into research and Toyotas racing development is one of the worlds best and the two manufacturers are some of the top ranked cars for reliability and it is what they tell you to do with their cars? I mean IM just guessing. But yeah some guy on the internet knows more we should all listen to you.

100%

 

[Pushrod]

I work at a place that builds engines for racecars. Once the engine is built, it goes straight to the dyno. No engine we build gets an easy break in. This is exactly why I didn't take it easy on my break in. I simulated the rough break in we do on the dyno and so far it has treated me right.

And that engine will only last for several races.

 

[Evolution]

And that engine will only last for several races.

They actually last several seasons of racing...

 

[Moorman]

For a little different perspective, I'd imagine we can all agree that engine reliability and performance in an aircraft carries at least a little more focus/importance than in cars.

Per Lycoming via Hard Facts About Engine Break-In:

"For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break-in procedures."

 

[BuyHighSellLow]

I wonder if this oil issue is part of the reason for 2022 delays. Having to change and test new parts, along with possible supply chain issues on top.

Imagine if they just revert to the 2020 engine and tune it to the same power (or more) as the 2021 lol

 

[SUPRA90]

...Imagine if they just revert to the 2020 engine and tune it to the same power (or more) as the 2021 lol

After seeing replacement ‘21 motors fail, I wouldn’t hesitate to request a 2020 motor if Toyota says I need a new one.

 

[Loco38SUP]

People on here are reporting that 2021’s start burning oil around 2500-3000 miles. I’m at 2500 miles and plan to change the oil myself at 3000 miles.

From this point on I’m going to be sending oil samples to Blackstone for testing. If piston rings and/or rod bearings are starting to go the test should catch it.

So far I’m showing oil is at max limit on iDrive and on my Ecutek Connect app I’m only down 7% overall.

-RJM

 

[max]

I was under the impression that this was only affecting the 3.0????? Appears you have a 2.0?

 

[Heavy Foot]

People on here are reporting that 2021’s start burning oil around 2500-3000 miles. I’m at 2500 miles and plan to change the oil myself at 3000 miles.

From this point on I’m going to be sending oil samples to Blackstone for testing. If piston rings and/or rod bearings are starting to go the test should catch it.

So far I’m showing oil is at max limit on iDrive and on my Ecutek Connect app I’m only down 7% overall.

-RJM How does this Blackstone thing work? Where can I pick it up? Thanks.

 

[Loco38SUP]

I was under the impression that this was only affecting the 3.0????? Appears you have a 2.0?

Its that Renaissance Red 2.0 color description, it always confuses people. But I do have a 3.0 premium.

-RJM

 

[Dannyvandelft]

After seeing replacement ‘21 motors fail, I wouldn’t hesitate to request a 2020 motor if Toyota says I need a new one.

Lol yeah because that's how it works ?
2020 engines can't go in a 2021 car and vice versa. They have different ECU's with different maps, different parameters, etc.

 

[Dannyvandelft]

I will do my best to describe it. Main thing here, when I say break in an engine, all I am talking about are the rings. Nothing else really needs to break in.

When an engine is new, it has what you call "cross hatching" on the cylinder walls. Think of this as sand paper for the rings. The goal here is to get the rings to press on the cylinder walls so that the cross hatching can shave the rings into a perfect shape that matches the cylinder walls. The rings by themselves will have tension but there are 2 ways to get even more tension, which is needed.

First, we use vacuum. That meaning, downshifting and letting the engine coast down on its own from a high RPM to low. This will help pull the rings away from the piston and into the cylinder wall. I typically do it from 5000 rpm down to about 2000 rpm in something like 3rd gear.

Next, we get into boost. Now this doesnt mean floor it and go. Its the same concept of the vacuum but opposite. Put it in 3rd gear, start at 2000 rpm, give it enough gas to get into boost (again, does not have to be full throttle) and let off at 5000 rpm. This will also help push the rings into the cylinder walls but in a different way than vacuum.

I did that process over the first 500 miles. I live in the mountains so it was very easy for me to do. All boost going up the hill, all coasting on the way down. At 500 miles, I took the car out racing. Lots of full throttle, lots of full boost and a lot of vacuum. That was the final step of seating the rings.

Now if you dont get enough pressure on the rings, aka easy break in, the cross hatching on the cylinder walls will go smooth before the rings are seated and broken in. That is when you run into oil consumption problems. Hopefully all that helps!

I do it this way, I leave my garage, drive easy till I get to the interstate on ramp, by that time the car is fully warmed up, on the on ramp I run through the first 4 or 5 gears, not WOT but enough to get a good load on the engine, then I cruise to the first exit, and use engine braking going down the ramp, downshifting manually at around 3500 RPM back up to 5000 or so. Then pass under the interstate and do the same thing the other way, and then cruise home again after a few circles.

 

[max]

Its that Renaissance Red 2.0 color description, it always confuses people. But I do have a 3.0 premium.

-RJM

I guess that is what I get for not being an "official" owner........ Thanks for the correction.....

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