“Engine Oil Pressure Too Low”

[SilverBully]

I just went and got one from habor freight, I’ll probably never use it again lol. Bought it solely for this one job. Unless some how I break another oil pump.

nice! I am glad that worked, I have never used one of these before and I was worried if I ever had to replace my oil pump I would have to buy a specific one to fit the Supra.

I almost want to preemptively replace mine

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[DONN]

nice! I am glad that worked, I have never used one of these before and I was worried if I ever had to replace my oil pump I would have to buy a specific one to fit the Supra.

I almost want to preemptively replace mine

I’m sure you could drop the subframe with floor jacks and have it in and out within a days time. I have a lift so it made it so much easier being able to sit on a rolling chair and work. Being my first time I was able to get all the panels off and drop the subframe in like 4 hours and replace the pump and reinstall the oil pan. I called it quits after that and spent about almost 2 hours getting the subframe back in. For the engine brace, I for some reason was missing the engine hoist brackets. Had to make my own out of some thicker sheet of metal for the brace to hook onto.

 

[DONN]

Not sure, I have yet to complete putting the car together. I will update you when it’s done. Gotta bolt the subframe back in and waiting for my oil to arrive on Monday.

Update, I’ve driven my car for a bit now. Cleared the codes and they never came back.

 

[Faye]

Sorry to revive a thread from a few months ago, but wanted to follow up since I didn't see it mentioned anywhere. There is a superseded part # for the oil pump. The earlier models featured a plastic adjusting ring. The plastic can break, so even though you still have oil pressure, it isn't near what is being commanded, thus the "plausibility" code. The new part has a sintered steel adjusting ring. So to the other poster who mentioned replacing their pump prematurely, that is what I am going to do as well. Sucks that is happens to be $720 from the dealer :')

 

[climhazzard]

Sorry to revive a thread from a few months ago, but wanted to follow up since I didn't see it mentioned anywhere. There is a superseded part # for the oil pump. The earlier models featured a plastic adjusting ring. The plastic can break, so even though you still have oil pressure, it isn't near what is being commanded, thus the "plausibility" code. The new part has a sintered steel adjusting ring. So to the other poster who mentioned replacing their pump prematurely, that is what I am going to do as well. Sucks that is happens to be $720 from the dealer :')

First, just want to say your YouTube channel is fantastic. Second, a DIY with your typical level of detail on the B58 oil pump replacement would be *amazing*.

I have an early production (March 2020) MY2021 that I imagine has the faulty design. The car sees less than 1000 miles a year so who knows if it’ll ever begin showing symptoms.

 

[coldtires]

Sorry to revive a thread from a few months ago, but wanted to follow up since I didn't see it mentioned anywhere. There is a superseded part # for the oil pump. The earlier models featured a plastic adjusting ring. The plastic can break, so even though you still have oil pressure, it isn't near what is being commanded, thus the "plausibility" code. The new part has a sintered steel adjusting ring. So to the other poster who mentioned replacing their pump prematurely, that is what I am going to do as well. Sucks that is happens to be $720 from the dealer :')

To add onto this too, to those who can't get it covered under warranty you can also purchase the BMW Z4's oil pump P/N instead. Costed me around $450 as opposed to going to Toyota who wanted $1100 alone for the pump.

 

[razorlab]

To add onto this too, to those who can't get it covered under warranty you can also purchase the BMW Z4's oil pump P/N instead. Costed me around $450 as opposed to going to Toyota who wanted $1100 alone for the pump.

Or any Gen 2 B58 recent part #, which is probably the same as the Z4 #.

 

[lucky phil]

Id like to actually see the internals of the new pump and the supposed new sintered metal control ring. Never heard of the material change until now. Not saying it's wrong but with all the discussion about it I've not seen any images of the new pump internals. Plenty of broken composite ones but no new ones which seems odd considering it's quite a significant change.

Phil

 

[razorlab]

Id like to actually see the internals of the new pump and the supposed new sintered metal control ring. Never heard of the material change until now. Not saying it's wrong but with all the discussion about it I've not seen any images of the new pump internals. Plenty of broken composite ones but no new ones which seems odd considering it's quite a significant change.

Phil

@garudathree did his recently. Perhaps he has some photos.

 

[garudathree]

https://www.google.com/search?sca_e...ih=823&dpr=2#vhid=7TiXGquX2B8IqM&vssid=mosaic

 

[coldtires]

Id like to actually see the internals of the new pump and the supposed new sintered metal control ring. Never heard of the material change until now. Not saying it's wrong but with all the discussion about it I've not seen any images of the new pump internals. Plenty of broken composite ones but no new ones which seems odd considering it's quite a significant change.

Phil

I found these on an overview through Google search which links to Instagram. Although, it looks like they might've been deleted from the post so this is the best quality I could find.

 

[lucky phil]

I found these on an overview through Google search which links to Instagram. Although, it looks like they might've been deleted from the post so this is the best quality I could find.

Cool thanks. Looks legit then for sure. Before I bought my DD a few years ago I was researching VW Tiguans and the 2.0 l engine was up to about it's 14 iteration of plastic bodied water pump. They generally last about 50-60K miles. Anyway I was thinking why not just make them out of aluminium and be done with it and surprise, surprise a US aftermarket company did just that. Manufacturers sometimes just flog a sub optimal concept to death instead of just stepping back to tried and true solutions. Hopefully the B58 oil pump is an example of that reverting back to a metal control sleeve.
Kelly Johnston the genius aeronautical engineer responsible for the design of the U2 and Blackbird among other notable aircraft and starter and head of the Skunkworks had a multi point mantra he always introduced his new engineers to when they started at the Skunkworks. One of them was "if you have a engineering problem just kill it dead" In other words don't meddle about creeping up on a solution go the extra yards to begin with and solve it 100% and move on.
Lessons often not adopted in other engineering disciplines.
Phil

 

[Bluntarific]

To add onto this too, to those who can't get it covered under warranty you can also purchase the BMW Z4's oil pump P/N instead. Costed me around $450 as opposed to going to Toyota who wanted $1100 alone for the pump.

Oil Pump

Part Number: 11419895359
Supersession(s): 11-41-9-895-359

 

[Faye]

First, just want to say your YouTube channel is fantastic. Second, a DIY with your typical level of detail on the B58 oil pump replacement would be *amazing*.

I have an early production (March 2020) MY2021 that I imagine has the faulty design. The car sees less than 1000 miles a year so who knows if it’ll ever begin showing symptoms.

Oh gosh, thank you so much for the kind words! I honestly wasn't considering it, because I normally make my videos on topics that I truly feel like I have "mastered" so I can speak from experience and share helpful tips.... I will be doing this job for the first time. I'm not even a "Supra Certified" tech yet... but I'll see what I can do maybe just a different style of video. Seems like 3 BMW SSTs are involved and a myriad of "renew" one-time-use bolts, so this truly is brand-new to me as a Toyota tech. But yes, you do have the plastic adjusting ring, so I would definitely plan on this job, or get it covered under warranty ASAP.

To add onto this too, to those who can't get it covered under warranty you can also purchase the BMW Z4's oil pump P/N instead. Costed me around $450 as opposed to going to Toyota who wanted $1100 alone for the pump.

Wow, I wish that was my experience. My local BMW dealership wanted $835 for the oil pump with a commercial account, Toyota wanted $800... $720 with my employee discount
Maybe you can start a business here selling the cheap pumps to the rest of us... just making sure they are the correct revision index reflecting the update.

Id like to actually see the internals of the new pump and the supposed new sintered metal control ring. Never heard of the material change until now. Not saying it's wrong but with all the discussion about it I've not seen any images of the new pump internals. Plenty of broken composite ones but no new ones which seems odd considering it's quite a significant change.

Phil

I think the issue here is that Toyota dealerships were never sent a bulletin with the change and superseded revision index like BMW dealers were. You drop off your car for warranty work or order the part, Toyota dealers keep nothing for the Supra in stock, so the parts guy orders the newest part from their warehouse, and you automatically get the updated part that fixes the problem.
The issue affects the earlier cars up to mid-2021. For reference, my build date is 07/10/2020 and is affected. I am outside of warranty - just barely past 60 months of ownership - but to be fair, I wouldn't want anyone else to perform service to my car anyway. Sure most of you can relate.
The part number for the old and new pump are identical (as you can see from the extremely helpful post above this one). What you have to make note of is the revision index (06 and higher is the correct part with the sintered steel adjusting ring), and for my fellow DIY-ers, note that you need a software update as well. I will attach the BMW info in case it helps.

 

[coldtires]

Oh gosh, thank you so much for the kind words! I honestly wasn't considering it, because I normally make my videos on topics that I truly feel like I have "mastered" so I can speak from experience and share helpful tips.... I will be doing this job for the first time. I'm not even a "Supra Certified" tech yet... but I'll see what I can do maybe just a different style of video. Seems like 3 BMW SSTs are involved and a myriad of "renew" one-time-use bolts, so this truly is brand-new to me as a Toyota tech. But yes, you do have the plastic adjusting ring, so I would definitely plan on this job, or get it covered under warranty ASAP.



Wow, I wish that was my experience. My local BMW dealership wanted $835 for the oil pump with a commercial account, Toyota wanted $800... $720 with my employee discount
Maybe you can start a business here selling the cheap pumps to the rest of us... just making sure they are the correct revision index reflecting the update.



I think the issue here is that Toyota dealerships were never sent a bulletin with the change and superseded revision index like BMW dealers were. You drop off your car for warranty work or order the part, Toyota dealers keep nothing for the Supra in stock, so the parts guy orders the newest part from their warehouse, and you automatically get the updated part that fixes the problem.
The issue affects the earlier cars up to mid-2021. For reference, my build date is 07/10/2020 and is affected. I am outside of warranty - just barely past 60 months of ownership - but to be fair, I wouldn't want anyone else to perform service to my car anyway. Sure most of you can relate.
The part number for the old and new pump are identical (as you can see from the extremely helpful post above this one). What you have to make note of is the revision index (06 and higher is the correct part with the sintered steel adjusting ring), and for my fellow DIY-ers, note that you need a software update as well. I will attach the BMW info in case it helps.

I wonder if the software update is absolutely needed. Would you be able to
do it yourself or would you need to take it to a dealer and possibly have the DME locked if you're tuned? Another thing to worry about.

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